Bigdave1230

Mine are none genuine as Audi never did a 22” wheel on my shape Q7 and the genuine RS6 wheels in the same style were 20”. I have 285/35/22 tyres and drives spot on

I’ve got 22” rs6 style wheels on mine and drives fine. Had 22” rs4 style on my last one with Pirelli tyres and it ate them in around 8000 miles. I got some decent looking budget tyres on these wheels which have done 9000 and are about half way through their life. Other than it being a bit louder on the road only noticeable on the motorway really they have been fine

Does the radio/mmi still work or is the entire electrical system dead? I think if the key was faulty the ignition lights would still come on but the immobiliser would stop the car starting

I changed the battery on my current and previous Q7 and only coded this one in because it was acting sluggish to turn over everyone and then. But that turned out to be an engine earth. The last one was fine without coding in and have been told that the coding only has relevance for the power management control which turns the radio off etc if the cars not running if it thinks it will drain the battery past the not starting point. If you are getting it coded it takes 2 minutes if they know what they are doing but ask them to enable the green screen on the mmi at the same time as this will allow you to enter the hidden menu and allow importing of cds into the jukebox.

😂 undo the 2 bolts holding the front seat assembly to the floor, move the seat forward and the whole thing pivots backwards into the rear seat area. The battery is under a cover with spring clips on then held in place by a 10mm bolt clamp. Takes 30 - 45 minutes

Sorry been busy and not got around to checking until now. The power and earth run from the drivers side fuse box behind the dashboard through the transmission tunnel under the Gear selector to the side of seat runner. Then up behind the seat liner (the plastic seat backs are held on with clips so are quite easy to come off) and the wires run up the headrest tube so nothing is seen. The wires that link the dvds run the same way and run into the transmission tunnel behind the rear heating vents. None of the trim or plastics have been cut in anyway and there are no visible wires showing. Sorry I can’t post anymore pictures on here anymore.

I’m don’t think it is as the power is cut when the ignition is off. I think it is ran from the fuse box on the drivers side and runs behind the dash and down the centre console. The leather gaitor on the Gear selector comes off to reveal a space to run a cable. If I get chance tonight I’ll have a look and see how they connected them

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F121644298385 these look similar but you can get the jist

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172323904332 I have the same as this one

Hi Foz I have after market DVD players in both front seat headrests. They come with wireless headphones and can play individually or the same film on both and play the sound through the radio. They were about £200 to buy and was going to fit them myself but the company I got them off only wanted £50 To fit them. We went to look at a few Q7’s at a place in Oldham called S Cars and all there cars had them in so my wife asked if we bought a car else where would they fit them in it. They were really helpful and gave us the number of the place in Oldham that fits them for them. If you look on eBay at some of there Q7’s you can see what they look like. They come with a zip on cover so can be covered over to just look like the original head rest.

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

Are those 22” Justin?

I think it’s on the passenger side dash board. There is 3 rows of fuses. It’s the top row 5th from the right and will be a 20 amp fuse.

If you haven’t sorted the battery drain issue out yet then I would try pulling the fuse out for the aux heater then leaving it over night as a faulty unit is a common cause of battery drain. Also the new battery should really be coded in using vcds so the battery control module can regulate power so You can’t drain the battery say with the radio when the car isn’t running to enable it to always start. But I doubt this would cause the battery to drain over night. There is a common thing with starter motors (“lazy starter”) too where they crank slow and look like the battery is flat my old Q7 had it and my current Q7 is now suffering from it. It requires changing but this is a 4 hour job as it requires an engine mounting and the alternator moving. Europarts do a Bosch unit which is about £300 but you get £70 back by giving them the old unit. Under the bonnet at the back is a positive connector used for jump starting. If you have a multi meter you could measure the battery voltage there and fault find

Is the tailgate closing fully or does it End up being left slightly open. Can you post some pictures. My last q7 had a problem when I bought it where the tailgate didn’t close fully and as it was pulling it down you had to manually give it a push when it got near to get it fully closed. Turned out to be a small spring that had snapped on the latch. Just remade a hook on it using to snips and hooked it back on. Took ten mins. Somebody put a post on here about it. Try looking through the earlier posts.

My rear panel won't open at all and hasn't done since I've owned it. Apparently they seize up. Try closing the rear sun visor and then closing as the sun visor clip can go back too far when open and put too much resistance on the sun roof so won't close. Failing that there is a panel on the passenger side of the dash board when the door is open that comes off and exposes some fuses but on the back of that panel there is a special shaped Allen key. Pull the interior light down behind the sunroof to expose the motor. There is a really obvious hole the key goes in where you can manually wind the roof back in. Hope this helps Sorry can't post a picture it says max total size 0.24mb 🤷🏻‍♂️

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Yep the car has had some paint on the front bumper and bonnet which looks like it was probably stone chip repair. But as this wasn't done by Audi who knows what coatings have been applied to the car at the same time so I'm sorry sir but the warrenty won't be applicable in this instance. 😂 Was worth a try and the guy was pleasant and offered me a go in a SQ7 when I have more time. So when the kids are back at school I'll take the wife over and him what it can do 👍🏻

Hi I've notice a couple of imperfections on my Q7's bodywork most noticeable is some small rust bubbling on the drivers side rear door handle and was going to get them sorted by a garage who told me that audi's have a 12 year corrosion warrenty and to ring them to get it inspected. Has anybody tried to get anything like this sorted by them or am I just wasting my time as they will just fob me off with excuses that I can't argue with?

Finally got around to sorting it out. Borrowed a mates borascope to check the wiring and if the drainage for the rear sunroof was leaking onto the connectors. All fine so bought a gps antenna with the correct connection off eBay for £3.50 and tested it. Now works fine. Slackened off the rear trim panel and fished the wire down so the small square antenna sticks to the rear window. Job done

My Q7 was intermittently taking a while to start (10 seconds then a puff of white smoke when started) diagnostics showed the number six glow plug was the problem. Only £17 from euro parts so put a full set in and has been fine since. Was told that because it didn't fire straight away that unburnt fuel was getting to the lambda sensor and so the ecu was backing the fuel off hence why it would just turn over and over.

I bought a disc and had the same problem. It's locked at the factory and have been told that when they arrive at the dealer they should unlock it there but not all did. You need vagcom /vcds to unlock. It's very simple and takes 5 minutes to do as it just involves changing a 0 to a 1 or vice versa. I'd try ringing your local Audi dealer and tell them that you have spoken to Audi U.K. Who have told you that it should of been unlocked when new and said to ring your Audi dealer and ask them to do it. If they want to charge you then any local independent with vcds can do it for less

Yeah checked wiring etc. Passenger one works fine, all fuses fine. Does the seat 💺 need to come out or can it be done in the car. I have put dvds in the headrests and don't fancy removing to and the wiring if I don't have too. Cheers

Hi has anyone ever replaced the heated seat element a leather drivers seat. Does it involve cutting the stitching or is it a case of dismantling the seat. Cheers

Don't have a dash cam but believe it's not picking satellites up. Going to check the connections but have looked at the antena on eBay and the wires are very short so don't go to the drive directly. I have removed the interior light underneath the fin and followed the cables but the connections are under the head liner so need to drop it to investigate further. My car has a panaramic sunroof and have been told the drain pipes can leak so will check with a borascope for signs of water. I put a new map disc in and updated the software when I got the car but I'm unsure how they managed to get the nav to know where it was when I collected it from them. I want to put it back on them to sort but the quality of some of the work they have done to it isn't the best and I don't want a "bodge" fix.