Digs1972

Morning Magent, Thanks for the advice. When I spoke to the garage that did the mapping they said to replace like for like which I passed onto the garage replacing the Clutch, it will be either a LUK or Saches, they also said there are some cheaper LUK versions out there where the friction material is "poor". Euro Car parts have both the Saches and LUK listed around the same price, £330'ish but also offering 35% discount at the moment, I'm assured that I can get them cheaper via my mates garage. As the garage who are replacing the clutch is owned by close friend of mine then I'm positive (made it clear) that the superior option is used, also having the DMF replaced also, lot of money to spend I know but the car belonged to my late wife, so there is sentimental reason for spending the money as I plan to keep the car as long as possible. I'll keep you posted on hit it goes, the car is due in next Thursday.

Morning, Clutch was fine before remap and now slipping, if it is driven normally no issue but anything more and it slips which leaves two options, throttle back the remap or new clutch. Already booked into have new clutch next week but will speak to the garage who performed the remap this morning and see what there advice is. They did warn me this could be an issue when I booked it in, they asked for the mileage.

Evening, Just had my A4 TDi remapped at a local garage as quite a few people locally recommended this garage and the improvement it made to quite a varied amount of cars and engines. The power increase is quite noticeable and impressive and it feels like a different car but the clutch was slipping in 3rd and 4th when giving it some welly but no issues when driving normally. My A4 is a 140 model and the mapping has boosted it to 200, not the main reason I wanted it done, just wanted some more grunt and better MPG, they did warn me of clutch slip as it is still is the original and has 112K miles usage without fault. My question is, can I just buy a normal clutch replacement kit or do I have to go a step further and get a performance kit? Cheers

When I purchased mine the rear wiper had been removed as it had failed, the whole was filled (and still is) with a 12v power socket cap. Out of interest, has anyone replaced their rear wiper when it has failed? Any advice welcome

Air circulation was not switched on, I agree with Darth_Stinky that the Cabin Filter fixes the problem, there was a noticeable difference from the moment the filter was first used and it's subsequent use

May not be the case in your example but get it checked out ASAP, I had a starnge noise recently, albeit not as loud as yours on my 61 plate A4 TDi. I noticed the noise and it only occurred when the right pedal was down, had it looked at by local garage who could find no issue, then BANG, the Turbo impellers failed and oil leaked through to the DPF and set it alright. It went to Audi for diagnosis and they quoted £3.5K to repair but had a trusted person repaired it for £1.8K , my learning lesson was do not ignore out of the ordinary noises. Hope it all works out and any costs are low.

Morning, my A3 have the Audi Chorus audio unit and I'm thinking of replacing it. I think the sound is very good but its functionality lets it down, FM only and music is only via the AUX connection which means no / difficulty changing music whilst driving (me anyway) and no sat nav. seen the original Audi sat nav units on eBay which is an option or the after market models , anyone done this before ? Is it easy to do? I like the idea of Apple car play but it's not essential , DAB, iTunes library control and sat nav is my preference. cheers in advance

Morning, silica bags have been removed for a few days now and the issue seems to have been resolved. Looks like the new cabin filter is holding its own now.

Update from my end. Arrived at Cardiff airport last night where my car has been sitting for the last two weeks. Started her up and as usual it fogged up pretty much instantaneously, when I arrived home the Silica Gel bags had arrived, so they where hung on the coat hooks over night (still there). This morning, had to move the car, no fogging, went back out later to change the cabin / pollution filter and again no fogging, Just been out again no that Barbara has arrived and it's sheeting down and again, no fogging, pretty much conclusive they are doing something. ALSO, as mentioned above changed the Cabin / Pollution filter, took the old one out and could not believe the $hite that came out with it, obviously not been done in a while by the previous owner. New one in which is pretty straightforward and a noticeable difference when Temp is set to low and Air Con gets going, seems to be more powerful and a lot less stuffy in the cabin and NO FOGGING. Ordered a new Cabin Filter for my wife's A4, no issues with her car but we have our cars serviced by a friend of ours and he is pretty old school (only does oily bits) and as mine wasn't changed when I took it there after I purchased my car so I'm pretty sure hers hasn't been either.

sWill do, the topic of Drainage channels reminded me of my old D plate Cavalier SRi , a few occasions when driving it would suddenly mist up and when I say mist up it was like a sauna. No idea what was causing it until I noticed it only happened when going around a corner after heavy rain or after going through a car wash, I opened the bonnet and the blower sat is a trough which was full of water, god knows how it kept working but clearing the drainage channels did the trick.

Morning, Having the exact same problem with my 57 Plate A3. Only owned it a short while and it spends most of its time sat in a airport car park while I work away. I had the Air Con re-gassed recently which made no difference, I have purchased a new cabin / pollution filter and some 1KG Silica Gel bags from Amazon, I'm home on Friday for Christmas so I'll let you know how I get on. Will also check the Drain plugs as mentioned above. Have a Good Christmas and New Year