Envy

You only have one key? Risky! Try some of the following steps I found on the tinterweb Steps to reprogram keys to a car they are already linked to: 1. Press and hold the unlock key on a remote 2. Insert key in ignition and turn to on (while still holding unlock) 3. Hold unlock while in the on position for 2 seconds 4. Turn key to off, remove from ignition and release button. Do this for each remote. Relink to seat positions (press and hold mem position #, then unlock button for 2 seconds and release both) and done. To program new remotes on a car never linked to previously: 1. Take a key (valet key works best, put it into the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position, so the dashboard lights come on. 2. Roll down the driver's side window (not required, but a good idea in case there's a problem). 3. Exit the car and close the door. 4. With a second key, physically lock the doors by turning the key clockwise (don't use a remote). 5. Take the first remote to be programmed, press the unlock button. The lights will flash once. 6. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. That first transmitter is now programmed. ***If you have only one key skip to step 16. Otherwise continue to step 7.*** 7. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote) by turning clockwise. 8. Press the unlock button two times with a one second interval in between, the lights will flash with each button press for a total of two flashes. 9. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The second transmitter is now programmed. ***If you have three keys proceed to step 10. Otherwise skip to step 16.*** 10. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote) by turning clockwise. 11. Press the unlock button three times with a one second interval in between, the lights will flash with each button press for a total of three flashes. 12. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The third transmitter is now programmed. ***If you have four keys proceed to step 13. Otherwise skip to step 16.*** 13. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote) by turning clockwise. 14. Press the unlock button four times with a one second interval in between, the lights will flash with each button press for a total of four flashes. 15. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The fourth transmitter is now programmed. 16. Remove the key from the ignition. Some earlier Cars had a chip transponder in them that was read by a reading near the ignition barrel. Have you changed the battery / dropped the keys and reassembled them recently? Hope the above works - a Vehicle locksmith may be you next port of call

Should be as easy to downgrade a car as upgrade it - look at the original build label of the car (normally in trunk) and you will get brake specifics including OEM disk diameter - I would also have a little hope that it is only a disk and pad swap out as the calipers will run on a set diameter. Wish them luck from me.

A4 is a good car with plenty of room for most - how well do you pack for going away is the question? I have an A6 Avant, kids are well out of pushchairs and I will put a roof box on for practicality at times putting light stuff up top. The A6 boot will swallow 4 big cases +4 hand luggage - some come with retractable load net that extends from seat back to roof lining stopping loose items coming into the passenger space and legroom is more than enough so my advice (if the budget will stretch) is go for the bigger A6 - As much car as you will ever need.

Been using non-Audi Adblue since the car needed it - pay less than £1/litre and get through around 10 litres every 6K miles. Purchase through Amazon with free delivery Adblue is a urea solution and a recipe that is hard to get wrong - for you own peace of mind get Audi DEF but IMO it is an unnecessary additional expense

I am running Avon ZV7 - great on grip less on fuel economy - extremely quiet too. May not get the mileage of some options but always a trade off between grip and longevity.

When you say rear left side is that passenger or Trunk - is your A6 Avant or Saloon version? I would not expect water do be from AC in the back - what makes you think it is from AC as all AC plumbing is under the bonnet. Check your door and scuttle drains for blockage

Short runs are a Diesel Killer - DPF and EGR may come and haunt you. The short run economy return in relation to infrequent longer trips suggest to me that you should consider a petrol TFSi alternative. My 2.0 Diesel is enough to get anywhere in a suitable hurry but the 3.0 diesels are incredibly fast. Make sure, if you go for the Auto, that the Gearbox has been serviced properly at the correct intervals. An expensive service item Quattro should not give you any trouble - Was one of my must haves when I first started looking for a new A6 - add to that the Tech Pack

If the air-box lid was passing air either way this will have confused the ECU. With airflow monitoring pre and post air filter it is possible that this would have caused excessive soot but it should not have been in the engine bay. Soot in the engine bay would suggest a blowing exhaust / turbo manifold or around the EGR Valve.

Just a heads up that Friends are selling their A3 - add below. Nice car for the money with lots of extras boxes ticked from new. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/202007111128004?radius=1500&model=A3&advertising-location=at_cars&sort=distance&postcode=sn126bq&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=Used&make=AUDI&page=1

Cashed in and emigrated I would say - or sold it for £50 and is now ruing their decision.

Someone believes differently https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/audi-cross-pro-mountain-bike/1334930282

try this

Hi Gareth, I use Green Flag. My 16 plate A6 and a 06 plate Pug 307 are covered but the cover extends to personal cover so any car my Partner and I are in other than Hire Cars. No reclaiming recovery costs but they use contractor recovery agents nationwide through a central call centre that hands your case onto the contractor. Around £130 / year. Would be cheaper but the older car loads it up some.

3rd wheel option for me (unless I had to clean them weekly)

I understand that VAG use the same lamp for cornering as well has fog.

Cornering lights?

Look behind boot trim on side of fuel cap - should be red ring handle. Next is to seek replacement solenoid

Q7 notorious for bad earthing - earthing strap from body to block breaks down causing low battery symptoms. May or may not be your issue here but cheap fix if it is

Check the drain holes on the underside of your doors - any noticeable water in the doors? If they do not drain they may fill to a point where they leak into the cabin through the door card

Gearbox is oil and filter change and not a simple drop and replenish for the s-tronic at least. Every 40k miles and around 250£ at a main dealer.

As with any new car: full service history is a must and if you are looking at the Auto gearbox be sure that it has had the correct services done - the gearbox service can be pricey but if not done can bring all sorts of headaches. The s-tronic box if serviced can be so sweet though with imperceivable gear changes prodigin seamless drive. Other usuals include cambelt service and see that the waterpump was done at the same time. Larger engines have cam chains and these come at a premium at change time. Quattro is another plus as is tech and seat packs. Original options again added to the original purchase price but make a real difference to car ownership. Alloy wheels can start blistering with age and diamond cut alloys a mare to maintain. The A6 is a real workhorse and solidly put together with ample space inside - take you time and drive a few to get a feel for what feels right and wrong in the car. Good luck with your quest.

Having known an Audi owner experience this issue and seeing how many threads there are online regarding it I personally would replace the solenoid. Lube spraying may work for an unknown duration but will remain a temporary fix. Until the next time you go to fill up and have to resort to the "emergency" cord or as some would do - use the cord instead permanently. It is down to preference and convenience. It may be a voltage supply issue to the device and is an easy check but I would be surprised if Audi do not have the item in stock seeing so many failures.

Reduce Engine oil is an ominous warning if true as it would suggest either over filling or something adding to the oil level. Without a dip stick you cannot easily pull one out and get an idea of oil quality but there are stories of old where regen overfueling has added unburnt diesel to the engine oil. Note the detrimental effect that any unsuitable fluid will have on engine lubrication. With the car being a year old I would be getting onto Audi smartish to have them check it out. It might be a slight overfill, it may be a failing sensor or it might be the additional fluids. My tech knowledge of the engine is low but general knowledge would guide me to having the oil quality checked sooner rather than later. Question: HAs your oil quality dropped - has it been picked up by a drop in miles to next service?

So you have the conventional speedo and rev counter in the dash? Do you have a digital readout in between them that you can scroll through? Changing the Clocks will be a royal PITA but do the French accept the centre readout being km? If your car supports it (2007 is a fine vintage) can you change the readout units to metric? You will get L/km and kmh if the feature supports it but I would doubt that this will satisfy EU vehicle standards. My other suggestion is to do the old motorcycle import trick (if it exists as mph to kmh) and get a speedo overlay http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/kmh-to-mph-dials/model/audi-a6 Good luck