Steve Q

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting fistune dab to mmi 3g/3g+ Hope it's useful 🙂 EN FISTUNE Audi MMI 3G_3G+.pdf

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting an aux to an A4 b8 & A5 on the same platform. Hope it's useful 🙂 AUX_ohjeet_audi.pdf

Guide credited to Nick Roshon. One interesting design cue in the B6 / B7 (2001.5-2008) Audi A4 and S4 is the door blades – these fins protrude from underneath the door and give the car a more sporty look that is uniquely Audi – you won’t see door blades like this on any other car. There are three styles of door blades you can install on your Audi A4/S4, and they’re all universal between B6 and B7 body styles, as well as A4, S4, and RS4 models in the sedan or avant format (the convertible does have different door blades however). The three styles are: Audi A4 Door Blades – completely flat and they do not poke out from the side skirt at all. Audi A4 S-Line or USP (Ultra Sport Package) Door Blades – these look like the S4 door blades (above) only smaller and less aggressive. Audi S4 Door Blades – the most aggressive of the three, these door blades stick out the furthest from the body and have the sharpest angles. To install or swap door blades from one style to the other is very easy – all you need is a phillips screw driver, and you can swap out all four in under 20 minutes. There are two screws on the bottom of the door, which is all you need to remove, and then the door blade slides out. Here are a few pictures & step by step instructions on how to install & swap out a door blade (it is the same for all four doors). Installation Guide Step 1 – Remove the two screws on the bottom of the inside of the door. One is on the outside edge, one on the inside edge. And here is the other screw: Step 2 – Slide out the door blade. The door blades slide in and out, so simply pull the door blade outward away from the car when the door is open and it should slide 4-5 inches and the fall off. Step 3 – Slide on the new door blade and insert & tighten both screws again (basically, steps 1 & 2 in reverse). You’re done! Installation is easy and there is no doubt the door blades add an awesome visual effect to the car, whether you’re going for a clean & stealthy look with the flat door blades off of a standard A4, or a super aggressive and sporty look with door blades from an Audi A4. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.nickscarblog.com/diy/audi-a4-s4-door-blades-a-complete-guide-to-b6-b7-door-blade-options-installation/amp

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting a A4 cabriolet/convertible roof module. Hope it's useful 🙂 EBA_Audi_A4_FB_eng.pdf

I think you should be fine. But 18" will give you a better ride in my opinion.

You could get it retro fitted but it won't be cheap. Here's a link for an example: https://integratedautomotive.co.uk/product/audi-a4-2016-2018-b9-retrofit-carplay-and-android-auto-kit/ If it's been mis sold you're entitled to a full refund with 30 days of sale.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 I agree with Steve on getting a diagnostic check to see what fault codes flag up. There's no point tuning a poorly car. Dark side developments, thanos tuning and Revo are all supposed to be good. What ever tuner you use though make sure they have a rolling road for best results with any remap. You can also combine it with a stainless steel exhaust I can give positive feedback of powerflow. As well as having an upgraded panel air filter or induction kit. You could also look at an upgraded intercooler or turbo if you're considering serious power.

Sorry to hear of your issue. A similar issue was discussed last year on here: If it's not the sensors or the wiring to the sensors then there must be an issue with a brake module I'd suspect. The diagnostic check should flag the issue. I think you'll be left to foot the bill as the garage will claim it's not their fault. Unless you can prove damage otherwise.

You're most welcome 🙂 glad you got sorted. It's nice when the forum has helped members 🙂

If you do t use it then you could just leave it. With my A6 I've always chosen to carry out the repair. But I fully understand if you don't when you don't use the function.

Very good question, not sure what a full cycle would be to be honest.

Dark side developments aren't the cheapest but as the saying goes you get what you pay for.

You're welcome 🙂 In theory no, but if it were mine id try and get the up to date part and a genuine one at that. As is the age old saying "you get what you pay for".

Go for which ever one has the newest letter. Ie B is the updated part from.the one ending in A etc.

*Disclaimer: This installation guide is only that, a guide. If you run into challenges or think this may be too over your head, please contact a mechanic in your area to do it for you. By following this guide, you agree that robspace.net or any associates are affiliates are not responsible for any damage that may be caused to you, your car, your tools, or anything else you can think of. STM (Street Tuned Motorsports) has been a widely recognized and respected tuner in the Nissan world for quite some time. They’ve been the name behind some of the fastest Evo’s and GTR’s in the world, and more importantly for myself and other Audi-philes, they’ve recently decided to enter the realm of the RS3. This post serves as a walkthrough of the installation of their new intercooler for the 2017+ 8v FL RS3, based on the 1000hp rated Garret core. This Intercooler core is supporting massive builds, and should be more than enough to support the RS3, even as modifications build. For more information on the actual intercooler itself, please check out my full review. Overview of the process: Here’s what you’re getting yourself into: Removal of wheels Removal of front pieces of fender liner Removal of bumper Removal of screws for headlights Removal of crash bar and associated components Removal of factory intercooler Install STM Intercooler Re-installation of all of the rest If the above list scares you, and this guide scares you, you may want to enlist some professional assistance. I tackled this by myself, in my garage, with only the assistance of jack stands as well as a cardboard box with a towel over the top of it (to support the bumper when it came off the car). An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but is far from necessary. Tools List: Impact Wrench (for removal of bolts, only) 17mm Socket T-25, T-27, T-30 Torx drivers T-25, T-27, T-30 Torx Bits (for a socket wrench/impact wrench) 6 inch extension for above wrench Vice Grips (or other clamping pliers to hold the washer fluid line) Two jack stands Automotive jack Wheel chocks 10mm Socket 14mm Socket Flat-Head screwdriver 1: Place your car on jack stands, and remove the front wheels This is a great time to clean things out, check your brake pads, inspect your rotors, and generally make sure things look “okay” for the future. Some people have indicated that you can do this without removing the wheels – you probably can, however I believe it’s far easier with them off, and the vehicle in the air. I used a Ryobi 20v impact wrench with a Husky 17mm wheel socket, which is covered in plastic to protect your wheels during use. 2: Remove the screws of the plastic wheel-well covers You only need to remove the ones in front of the shock/spring assembly. 3: Remove screws at the bottom of the bumper Remove the three screws at the bottom of the car – you do *not* need to remove the oil pan cover. These are T-30, and match the three at the top of the bumper (but do the top ones last!). 4: Remove the screws from the sides (wings) of the bumper These were the trickiest for me; as I couldn’t find a good aspect for what to remove. You need to peel back the wheel well liner a bit, and unscrew the T-27 from the outermost post. The inside one does *not* need to be removed (circled in red with a strike-through, in the below photo). The next screw, I struggled to get a picture of. You need to pull back a little more of the wheel well liner, up above the last screw you removed. When you do this, you’ll find the T-27, and it’s hard to get to and reach, but fortunately it’s not terribly tight. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 6 inch extension, plus a T-27 1/4 bit to make it all work. The photo below was taken with the screw removed so that it contrasts better with the flash so that you can see the hole. Once you’ve done this, you can pull back the wing edges from the side of the car (it’s a little bit of a tug to do it…) 5: Remove top screws Remove the three T-30 screws from the top of the bumper. 6: Pull the bumper away from the car SLOWLY!!! I had an amazon box with a microfiber towel to rest the bumper on temporarily. You’ll need to disconnect the washer fluid line: And the park-assist sensor cable (if equipped) before pulling too hard on the bumper. 7: Loosen, but do not remove the headlights Three Torx on top: One Torx at the front: No need to do much more than that for now. 8: Remove ACC radar and temperature sensor Use an Allen key to remove the sensor, including bracket from the crash bar. The temperature sensor has a pin in the center that can be pushed out, and then pushed through the back-side. Be careful with this, as I did break the bracket (sponsored by Gorilla Glue, now!). STM included a new bracket, which I took the opportunity to mount (T27 again, I believe). 9: Remove the horns and let them hang T27 – unscrew them and let them hang. 10: Remove the remainder of the bolts for the crash bar This gets tricky – As you remove these, you’ll notice that the entire radiator assembly tries to slide down – It’s important that you note roughly where this was when you started, hindsight, you might even want to take a 2×4 or something else relatively flat to place under the radiator mount (at the bottom) to ensure it doesn’t slide at all. If it does, you risk that your hood won’t line up anymore, and it will need to be adjusted a bit (more on that later). 11: Removal of the crash bar Slide the headlights out and to the sides of the car, creating a bit of wiggle room for your crash bar – you’ll lift up and rotate away from the car, and it should slide past the headlights. 12: Remove the factory intercooler Using a flathead screwdriver, loosen both hose clamps. You may need to use the flathead to get the hoses lose, but I did not. Using a <size> socket, remove the two bolts holding down the factory intercooler. This should now just lift straight off. 13: Installation of the STM intercooler Pretty straight forward, slide the hoses over the ends of the intercooler, and tighten down. 14: Rebuilding the car! Pretty much go through everything in reverse order. Here are the ‘gotchas’ I ran into during re-assembly: When you re-install the crash bar, make sure that it’s in pretty close to the same position it was when you took it off. Re-installing the hard-to-reach screw inside the wheel well – There’s no really good way that I found to do this, so I took my watch and wedding band off, and literally just shoved my hand up there until i made it fit. I did shove a head-lamp inside so that I could have a bit of light. YMMV… When you close the hood, you may find that it doesn’t line up. If needed, there are a pair of T30 screws on each hood latch bar (left and right side of the underside of the hood). Screw these in and out as needed to ensure alignment. Once you get these aligned, you can lower/raise the rubber bump-stops up or down to ensure that the hood doesn’t rattle while closed and fits nice and snug. I personally aimed for the point where I didn’t need to slam it, but could close it gently and then simply “push” down to get each side to latch. https://robspace.net/2018/06/24/2018-8v-audi-rs3-intercooler-install-guide/

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting a load guard to a b9 Avant. I hope it's useful 🙂 8W9017221_ENG.PDF

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting twin intercoolers to a A3 8p. Hope it's useful 🙂 FMINTA3FS INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

Check out how to install the Audi Apple CarPlay module. First of all need to take off main MMI component & air climate panel. Audi Q3 RMC unit To pull off this unit, you’ll need VW radio removal tools. VW radio removal tools Insert VW removal tools inside the two holes in each side of MMI unit. You will hear a “click” noise, then you can pull off whole unit. After that disconnect all cables from unit. Now we need to make few changes to have a sound coming from CarPlay to MMI (the hardest part – we recommend to do this via advanced installers). NOTE!! THIS IS ONLY FOR AUDI Q3 OWNERS!! IN A6 / A1 DO NOT NEED DOING THIS!!! YOU ONLY NEED TO HAVE AUX After that, you need take off climate control panel as will need put cable spliter there. The best way to remove it, is using trim removal tools on each side: Audi Q3 climate control panel removal Audi Q3 climate control panel removal and pull it off. Another step is to connect all cables like on this diagram and the last one is to check if everything works fine! hope this has helped link: https://carsie.net/tutorials/apple-carplay-installation-manual-for-audi-a1-a3-q3-rmc-units/ 🙂

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting a centre console storage compartment. Hope it's useful 🙂 Audi front stowage console.pdf

As the title says please see the pdf doc for beta Installation for A4 b9, S4, A6, Q3, Q8 etc. Audi_s4_installguide (1).pdf

As the title suggests please see the attached PDF document for Q3 side step fitting guide. Hope it's useful 🙂 Audi Q3 SIde Steps Installation Guide (1).pdf

Hi Jean I believe they should be a direct fit with no modifications required.

Definitely get a professional remap on a rolling road for best results. The likes of thanos tuning, Revo or dark side developments come recommend by members

eBay should be your best bet. Alternatively look for a more up to date version 🙂 usually the last letter will change.

Yep that's about right. I believe the car has to be plugged in to a computer that's directly contacted to Audi Germany.