Steve Q

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds a lovely car 👍

I'd definitely say a leaking suspension airbag.

Just had a look on YouTube for videos: https://youtu.be/5GQ91HyQfdw?si=EawMm5ebZHe1jvSy

Fingers crossed it arrives before April 🤞

Yep you'll need the wiring harness and clock spring.

You're welcome. I think the 1.4 petrols have more problems I believe.

Odd there's no fault codes. When was the car last serviced. Could it be an issue with the HT leads or spark plugs for example

Do t forget for diesels you can have issues with dpf, egr and turbo. Service history is key. I think the decision needs to be made whether to have petrol or diesel and this will depend on the amount of miles each year, type of miles is town, motorway etc. diesels are better for longer commutes and lots of short journeys is what can block up the dpf with soot.

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Could be a crank sensor. Is there any red light on the dash which could indicate an issue with the imobiliser?

Keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Check service history for proof of a cambelt and water pump change and a gearbox oil change. The latter can start playing up with changing gears if the oil has deteriorated. In addition make sure all electrical items work as some parts can be expensive such as air conditioning compressors. Make sure heater works on all settings and is consistent temp and flow from all vents. Because if it isn't could be a sign or blocked heater Matrix and this isn't a cheap job. Check carpets and boot for any damp or water ingress both of which can be time consuming to trace. Also check buyers guides on YouTube.

You're welcome

If this were mine I wouldn't chance it. On my daily 2016 ford Kuga the interval was 10 years or 120k but ford has since changed this. Good job I found this out as my cambelt was on the verge of snapping at 85k.

I'd get the battery checked ked first as that's often the cause for this. In failing that I hope you're not as unlucky as this guy: https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/419622/ Coolant leak caused the ECU to get fried.

Usually you'll need one from same body type and engine type. So ideally from an A3 similar year and Engine

Yep you can't otherwise cara would be even easier to steal.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 I'm sure sunroofs are always an option.

I'd consider the switch. But might be worth checking the runners in case there's anything blocking it.

You'd be better off looking for local companies that specialise in repairing instrument clusters. As the instrument cluster has part of the vehicle imobiliser system built into it. So changing it for a second hand unit isn't plug and play.

Here in the UK we have retrofitting companies. Surely Germany does too. PDC should be straightforward for a retrofitter. But not sure about adding driver select.

Ideally yes but more so you know it's compatible with the wheel and the electrical plug will be the same.

I'd recommend you speak to a local company that can remove locking wheel nuts as they look pretty knackered.

Sorry you're still having issues, but at least you have a temporary cure.