Dan3222

I. Wonder if anyone know if the cills on the C6 are the same measurements as the face lift C7? In other words would the side skirts from a C7 fit a C6? As my A6 has a vinyl wrap the lovely wet roads I drive on have produced a stone wash effect that has started to remove the wrap along the cills. Rather than go for the vinyl to be patched/repaired I thought I could try adding side skirts which woul be fine. However there are plenty available for the C7 but not many at for the C6. Any info would be useful please.

please see see this link. Could well be same issue as yours.

Ha, you beat me too it. Had a search online too and it does look like you have leaking injector seals. I would assume that the substance is oily but thick? That’s how it is described on other forums. Please post a reply if replacing the seals fixes this issue. I will be checking my manifold soon for this.

Get a small hammer and tap all the nuts and bolts, a loose one will sound dull compared to tight ones. If you can’t find anything loose I suggest taking it to a local MOT garage that has a ‘shake plate’ which rocks the car. This should help find the cause of the rattle.

Hi Greny, What did you go for? You have very little to loose whichever you get because if the ride feels little different then you can always sell on the wheels easily enough. TBH, I doubt it will make much difference as it’s the suspension that is most responsible for how the car feels on the road. Hence my suggestion for changing to a Q5 perhaps!?! I would be tempted to go for the 225 tyres as there is more wall height to help in your quest for comfort. The less width than the 245’s also means less stress on the steering of the car. Particularly at low speed parking etc. Woukd be very interesting to see if you feel the difference in ride comfort. Be useful for others in the future too. Final comment is I am surprised not one forum member posted their 17” tyre size!! A shame because that’s what these forums should be about. Best of luck

Hi Stu. This is interesting as last week someone else with the TDI V6 (although 3ltr) had the same problem. The fact that you have this on both sides also is weird tbh. I have to admit I pointed the other person away from thinking it could be from the manifolds itself asi have never come across this before in many years of playing with engines. First question is stick your finger inside one or both of the tailpipes (obviously engine off and cold!!) and see if you have an oily residue on your finger. I would expect this to be the case if oil is leaking quite heavily from the manifold, it therefore makes sense that it would be making its way down the inside of the pipe too. If you do this after a drive but say an hour later, the tailpipes will have cooled but will not be wet in any way by moisture, only oil.... hope that makes sense.

My thoughts would be more inclined to think that the actual stalk itself would be the issue perhaps? It’s actually a common fault on many VAG cars, particularly VW, which share many exact parts with the 4 circles. As for the codes, just google them. That’s what I do.👍

One more thing I should have said. If any car goes down slightly in size or tyre circumference you will notice that at 60mph you will actually be going a little slower in real time. You can check this with a Sat Navthat gives current speed readings. E.g, when I take the 18’s of the T5 and put the winters on, 16’s, the Sat nav says I am going 61 when the speedo says 65. With the 18’s the Satan’s says 64mph. Something to be aware of. As for the OP, maybe changing the A5 for a Q5 might actually provide the ride comfort he requires!?!

Hi Magnet, it’s because of the power and size of the A5. Not the smallest of car. But maybe your right. (My English is terrible once again) Let’s hope some people post on here what they have currently. Might be interesting to see.

Not trying to throw a spanner in the works here but if 225/65/17 are available for the same speed rating as the ones you currently have fitted, which I doubt, are you aware they are designed for SUVs? This would change the whole dynamics of the car and I believe not in a good way. I wonder if anyone close enough to you from the forum had a spare set of 17’s with tyres that they could lend you for a week. To see if the ride does feel different. If you should go down this route could I suggest 225/50R 17’s, there would not be a massive difference in overall diameter in fairness and you might see a small change in comfort, how much I am not sure. I strongly recommend sticking with XL’s though, low profile tyres need them! I guess in fairness if the local councils actually sorted the pot holes ur back would cope better anyway. To other members on here, what size tyres do you have on your 17’s. this info could be helpful for this chap. hope that helps?

Hi and welcome to the forum. looks like you have one of the first B8’s. The change over year from B7 was 2008. You can tell by the front bumper on yours, paying attention to the fog light panel shape.

To my knowledge there are no reported common places for oil leaks on the V6 diesels. Therefore, without pictures it’s going to be very hard to help you diagnose the source of this leak. I actually doubt that it will be a leak from the manifold itself as the only source of oil would be from the internals of the engine which would indicate that there was a problem that would be producing smoke from the exhaust while driving, you haven’t mentioned an issue with a smokey exhaust? This would lead me to suggest the oil is coming from above the manifold, dribbling down and collecting on it. The usual suspect would be the rocker cover gasket. Has this car had any work done to it’s engine in the past? Final question is, did the MOT bloke not tell you the source? Does it say on the MOT print out?

Well in some ways that is a total result. It confirms what parking the rear up has done. It’s fuel running back. You have done the two things that I would have suggested to do, replace primary pump and then look at tandem pump. Shame you had to pay for the injector stuff though but still you know that is done for the future anyway.... silver linings and all. We really need someone like Ndziel to come on and tell you where to go for ignition 12v feed. Electrics are not in any way something I can help with. If you have a multimeter you could have a play, or even better a bulb on cables that would light up for you so you can see what comes live and what doesn’t. However, that’s easy for me to say sitting on the sofa!

Ok. Be interesting to see what happens.

Any progress Ian?

Any progress Simon?

In fact you could try putting the rear wheels onto the front to see if it acts the same. Costs nothing but a bit of time and helps point even more to other parts like drive shafts if it behaves the same.

Ok, there is a very good chance it’s the outer CV joint part of the drive shaft or shaft that has gone. But usually you would here clicking too. Are the tyres very unevenly worn perhaps?

£190 all in is not extortionate but not cheap either. Depends if it’s the front or rear on how long it takes but roughly 4 hrs plus price of a bearing!?!

Is this shake accompanied by a clicking noise also? Put your windows down to help identify which side it’s coming from.

The usual suspects for white smoke are water in oil and too much diesel usually caused be leaky injectors. Dont forget though on cold days both desires and petrol cars ‘steam’ until they are warmed up.

If the front engine mount deteriorates past a certain amount it allows the engine to move around too much and this can feel like a misfire creating imbalance.

Cillit Bang is also excellent for doing this and alloy wheels. But best of all is polish wheels with normal car polish when they are clean they stay easy to clean for ages after that. Never tried polishing the exhaust tips though!?!

Ha, you have changed the symptoms 🙂 If you have shacks night at idle and shaking at a specific RPM then I would suspect, clutch/fly wheel. I would need to see car myself to help any further as this is not straight forward as so much has changed from normal. Does the water coolant level go down at all on this car? I suspect the two issues have just as much chance of being unrelated or related now.

Superb advice from Magnet. 👍