Dan3222

As daft as this sounds has someone looked at the rear bearings? You never know! I don't mean change them to see but just manually check them. Inner CV joints don't really make noise per say when failing and you would usually get a distinct vibration while driving. However, if a bearing inside the inner CV joint is dry then I guess it could make noise I guess. do you have wheel spacers on the car, for a different offset?

Yeah, saw that. I am just about to add DRLs to the T5 with a new front bumper. I think I might go with this for the A6. Hope it comes down a bit in price as a few more sellers have it.

Hhhmmm, I am going to be the sensible old f8rt here and say don't delete the DPF as your car is so new. Don't change or alter anything like that until at least 3 yrs old. You will be up a rather dark brown creek without a paddle if something goes wrong under warranty!! With regards your issues, to burn off the DPF deposits you need to select a lower gear so you can keep the revs up higher, this significantly increases the exhaust gasses temp to actually burn the soot off. I would also use an injector cleaner every two to three fills of fuel. You state that a large proportion of your driving is on low revs. This promotes gumming up of the injectors and therefore poor fuel atomisation, giving higher carbon deposits creating even more issues. Get some injector cleaner (I have used Millers for 3 years now in both van and A6) and blast the engine a bit, have a bit of fun, and clear the exhaust system out!!

You know what Paul I am quite taken by this little mod. We were coming home from the cinema and it was just starting to get dark. It looked really good.

Thanks for update. You know I can tackle almost anything mechanical but when it comes to electrical stuff I am often baffled.

It looks like it, but measurements are available to check with your cars own badge.

So I saw an A4 with this grille badge today and I have to say I really liked it!! Interested in your opinions

Aqua tabs should work. If they don't, put a few drops of bleach into the tank then fill to the brim, leave over night. Next day empty the system but use the squirt function to clean the pipes out too. If your worried about bleach on car get the Missis to hold a hose pipe on car at same time. To dilute the bleach very quickly.

Pics!! Did u get them from PPT?

Only ever seen that on tyres that have gone flat whilst on the car, sat there for quite a while. But they don't look that old? i don't rate Dunlop tyres at all!!

Every day is a school day, if the tyre was causing the issue I would be amazed. The main reason for the direction of rotation is for water displacement, fitted the wrong way round simply means it won't function correctly in the rain. I just can't see how a tyre could cause it. Wish I lived closer, I would come over and have a look. But that doesn't help you now though.

As I don't have your car I can't answer my own question here, do you know if the bearings on your car are the same as the front?

I think you are right to be excited about having a rarer car. Makes it more unique while you keep it and more sellable If and when you choose to. My TVR is one of only 187 ever made and sold in the U.K. The majority where sold to the U.S of A. It's believed to be one of only 10 left now!! I think I love it more because of this reason lol.

Gavo, I have just had a quick scan through all the posts and can't see that you have had the other front wheel bearing changed. I can only recall you having one side done which was the incorrect side in relation to your description of sound production. Have you had both sides done now?

Each to there own on something like this. But in my opinion the cost to get this professionally repaired would probably be more than buying a second hand wheel, which hasn't been repaired and will therefore not be playing on the back of you mind should you ever use the spare. But like I say each to there own!

Brad has a good point, might be worth looking at induction pipes and if you can see the IC look for dark patches on it indicating a leak. But, it could well be wear in the turbo with the vanes themselves causing this issue. As you comment on the 3500 RPM's it could be the vanes touching the sides of the turbo which restricts the spooling up. This was covered on Wheeler dealers once with a Saab turbo, similar revs marked too!! Was quite interesting.

Quick way to double check any noise is coming from brakes (from your description on sounds created over rough ground) lightly press the pedal and hold for as long as you can. The idea is to not stop the car but add a bit of pressure to stop any noise from loose parts!! If the noise goes away then it will be most likely the brakes, if it doesn't then it is not likely to be the brakes but another part of the suspension. Hope this helps

So you have been tempted to the Dark side!! 🤔😜

I am thick as mince, u have an S3!! However, as I said get the codes read and take it from there!!

You don't say if you have a diesel or a petrol, also be useful to know if you have a turbo? It's a safe bet that if you do have a turbo it will be boost (low or high) related. Also, have you had the codes read yet? Unfortunately some garages are happy to take people money for a remap without thinking of the customers best interests. It would have been sound advice to have this fault rectified beforehand. Give us some more details, mileage engine etc and we might be able to help route the problem out but I would really advise getting any codes read first. Good luck.

Or in many cases only hours after the emissions fix. Jim, while I appreciate your worries, as Mr Q said, 8 weeks in and you should be fine. Remember that people only take the time to report/post negative experiences as a whole, there are thousands of cars that have had the recall on emissions with no issues. We are seeing the few people comment on the negatives rather than the positive results.

Can I ask if you mean the BWA engine rather than than the BWE?

There's are several updates to how the halves responds to when it needs to engage, your car is 2015 so must have the forth gen at least version. It should be engagaing very quickly to what I can work out. I read a couple of articles on it and how it's supposed to work, the delay u comment on does not seem right. However, I am not sure that a delay in it working can actually cause any damage. not sure if that helps or not!?! http://www.awdwiki.com/en/haldex/

My knowledge of CVT boxes is not that good but I am confused by you mentioning 'clutch' and flywheel? Are you sure it has a clutch? Out with the gearbox? It might well be worth topping up the fluid level in the box, I have read a couple times that these boxes can run low on fluid. I would get that checked as a priority tbh as it's a cheap fix and will prevent failure of the box if it is indeed the cause of the issue.

Ok, does your car have the Haldex system?