Dan3222

Yeah, you can only re-invent the wheel so many times. i am pleased you get the gist of what I said there too. So many similarities between cars these days it's hard to stand out from the crowd. As for the Capri...... There is hope they will start producing this!!!

Appologies, I thought you had commented that it occurred when crawling sometimes, I just assumed you were referring to queuing in traffic. if it is making a noise then something is moving somehow to make the noise, whether this is part of the drive train or a suspension part or linkage. I would assume this will either stay the same or simply get worse. Let's hope if it is the latter you can get this done under warranty. But, the fact that nobody else has reported this on a forum (which lets face it is the most common reason someone looks and then joins a forum, an issue with their car!) makes me think it's not a common problem/feature of you model of the Audi you own. Therefore, I would be inclined to not let Audi walk away from this just yet.

Lol, I like this, it really goes to show that there are only so many ways to make something that goes through the air as aerodynamically as possible. However, even though I am a massive classic car fan, I would never have a Princess over an A2. However, I would have the SD1 over an A7 any day. I love the front on the A7 but the back is not to my personal taste. I actually do a few car reviews (for a hobby) for a local publication. It gets quite difficult talking about advances in technologies etc etc when you are quoting 50 mpg combined when an Austin A35 with a 948cc used to do that 5 decades ago. In truth, only Honda being quite daring with the new Civic is so different with its styling and a 3 cylinder turbo 998cc engine that produces 129PS makes it stand out from a very crowded market place of similar looking cars. Yes there are others but my point is there aren't that many. From a distance it's hard to tell a Skoda VRS from an Audi A4!?! But saying all that, I would still have my 11 year old A6 with it's vinyl wrap, its angry sounding engine and crap fuel consumption if driven with a bad attitude 😈 Over many a modern car. Each to their own I guess!

That's interesting then, when you turn on the A/C or lights etc there is a slight load applied to the cars electrical system so the engine revs very often raise to produce more charge for the battery, infact it's a double whammy for the A/C as the engine drives the A/C pump too. Maybe you idle speed is simply too low? Just a stab in the dark you know!! what does it idle at with no lights A/C etc, post it on here and see if other people with the 3.0 V6 comment on their idle speed. Just for info, even with the clutch pedal down the flywheel (dual mass in your case) is still turning so it actually doesn't really rule that out tbh.

Gareth, Sorry to hear things have not been good health wise but pleased things sounds better now!! Dan

Hats off to you mate, a bargain fast car that you have sorted for pennies. Result.👍

Just realised you have an avant, it's says 'access to tank is left hand side luggage compartment side trim panel and floor tray'

If in doubt by both, take the one back you don't need. Keep a log of the correct part number for next time 😊

Two things to ask them to look for here (from my own limited experience on an issue like this) is play between gear box stub shaft to drive shaft, I suggest this issue because you hear it both going forwards and in reverse. I have heard of the wrong shaft being fitted and the splines being the incorrect fit, hence play and then a knock. The other is strut top mount on either side on front. You can feel this if someone steers from full lock to lock if holding the front spring, there will be a small judder at full lock. maybe one other issue could be a loose engine or gear box mount perhaps?

Good idea to put the spare on or swop the rear wheels with the fronts. See if it makes a difference. However, I do still think it's the front wheel bearing. The way that the front bearings are designed these days it's hard to tell by feeling for movement by hand. If the grumbling noise starts to become audible while you are driving straight but gets noticeably louder still when turning right then that will be the time to go back. CV joint wise, I have only every experienced issues that are very closely associated with two symptoms. If the outer CV joint is failing you will 99% of time hear a clicking sound when turning of full lock at a slow speed. If it's the inner joint deteriorating then you would 99.9% of time experience a vibration at a specific speed say 38-43mph, this is not gear specific only speed specific. Genuinely hope you get to the bottom of it soon.

Fuel temp sensor is actually on fuel return pipe mate. Access to tank is in boot, right hand side close to the back seat. Sorry to hear about the job. Been there done that one. Living where I live so far from anything it was hard to get a job that paid enough to keep the house. So I tried my luck at self employment, 3 years 11 months later still at it and surviving. My point there is always something. Does sound like primary pump issue, you don't need to take key out of ignition to use the prime function just turn ignition off and back to position 2 for 5 seconds and repeat. However if you have VCDS that's best. But just in case your not sure, the primary pump should only pump for 1-5 seconds. Best of luck, with everything.

Lol, As Mr Q said, you have literally given permission to have at least one full bag of clothes carefully stowed away in the boot every time she gets in the car. Even my partner said to me why don't you get some of those Dan!!!!!! What have you done Piotr, what have you done

Welcome to the forum Lee, I am not far from you actually, well in terms of Scotland anyway. In terms of remapping, what BHP are you at right now, 140 or 170 at a guess. A good remap should get you to a safe 200bhp. Much further than that then the turbo would become the first restricting item closely followed by the IC - InterCooler. After that the exhaust and injectors. Depends on your budget vs wanted outcome. But you might be pleasantly surprised on just remap results alone.

Lol, Piotr's advice is best then. If you hav drilled and vented you actually loose some surface area of the disk and therefore actual so you really should consider going bigger in diameter and aiding cooling with drilled and groves, better pads and better heat rated fluid 👍

Actually good point to take from this is do we ever take the time to endure the drivers door lock is free in the first place. White grease aerosol is great for keeping a lock free. Diesel is a very very good penetrant for a seized lock if WD40 doesn't do it.

Pleased it could be useful Mr Q. 👍

Bilt Hamber do a good one and it's not expensive either. Only tip I can give though is use a bit of petrol on a cloth to soften and remove the majority of the tar spots first. It's these that ruin clay bars quickly. Also worth putting some sacrificial cardboard on floor just in case you drop the bar, keeps the grit of it.

Piotr, you have no idea the flood gates you have just opened. Most expensive £4 you have ever spent!! 😉

A VOSA testing centre. One that you take commercial vehicle too. quite easy to pass, brakes have to lock enough when a hand brake is applied and lights have to work. No loose bolts or fixings!!

They do look awesome though for sure!!

Yeah, less than 400 weight brakes aren't needed, if trailer weighs more then it must have brakes. If you make a trailer like that you don't have to have it tested legally but it is best to as if you get pulled by the police they can worst case scenario impound it if they suspect something could be wrong with it. I got 3 points and a fine, CU10 for defective brakes on a transporter trailer 3 years ago, trailer was banned from the roads until it had a test. Bit of a nightmare. 😔

Sounds good Baggy. I have driven a couple A1's they are a nice drive.

Hhhmmm, 'sealed for life'. With better advice we would not have to go through things like this. I hope you enjoy many years of driving fun though with a rebuilt box. My suggestion is do not go past 50k without having the oil changed. Do mine in the T5 every 50. Due now actually. About £120 to £150. pleased u have it sorted now though.

Yeah, it is interesting isn't it. Mine is basically top 2.7 you can get with literally all the extras that where available. Never knew when I bought her either, happy days. But most pleased at having the tiptronic box 😏

Hi all, Sorry if someone has already uploaded this but I couldn't find it. I wanted to know what car I basically have and how much it would have cost when new. It has also answered a few questions like which gearbox I have etc. I hope someone else finds it useful. Dan https://www.audi.co.uk/content/dam/audi/production/PDF/UsedCars/Refresh/A6/A6 - Sept 06.pdf.