Dan3222

I have enjoyed reading this thread. Your Allroad looks in very good condition. the 54 plate is correct. 05 plates started on 1st March. So not suspecting a ringer!! To help find if there is a leak on any of the suspension air bags get under the car and spray a soapy solution onto them. You will soon see bubbles forming a plenty if you have a leak somewhere. I am however confused on the number of your kids, you seem to have found an extra one somewhere since starting this thread lol

Interesting, if you have a 'cone' then the box is a CVT. I was under the impression you had a tiptronic box which as far as I knew used gears and a torque converter. Everyday a school day!! Hence why the price you have been quoted is cheaper than what I originally said:-) TBH other than understanding the basic physics of how a CVT (constant velocity transmission) works I don't really have any xperience with them. It would be most helpful if you get a diagnosis of the problem if you posted up a reply. For the sake of 200 notes get one with a replacement cone. For peace of mind. Not that my opinion matters but if you love your car and have spent money on it then even though this will be a big bill it will be worth it. Good luck Dan

I second Gareth here, If the noise stays almost constant it will be one of the rear bearings. If it gets noticeably louder when turning right it will be the left front bearing, if louder when turning right it is the left bearing (this is because on cornering the weight of the car shifts towards the opposing side of the car. To diagnose which side of the car the rear bearing is, jack up the back, (leave car in gear and front wheels chocked for safety) release the handbrake and then spin the wheel with your hands. The faulty bearing will be very obvious as you will hear a noise compared to almost zero noise on the good bearing side. Hope that helps.

Have you had any progress on this issue? My guess is that you either have a sensor issue or a solenoid issue. But either way you need to see an independent auto gearbox specialist. To have a full rebuild of the box you are looking at about £2700, yep, that much!! Plus to get a warranty on the work there might be an insistence to have the gear oil cooler changed (if your car has one). a cheaper option is a secondhand box but these are not abundant and there vary wildly in price. However, they are not straight forward to simply change! This is the fear I have for both my A6 and my T5. Both have 6 speed tiptronic gear boxes and the last T5 I had had the rebuild completed a few weeks before loosing an argument with a tree!!

Hey Omar, Are you any further into the 'diagnosis' (see what I did there?). I originally suggested the emissions recall as you hadn't stated if you had a diesel or a petrol. I would agree with Gareth ( I seem to do that a little too much) as his advice is sound. You need a full report on the situation. Does you car have a Turbo? If these seize they create a lot of back pressure. To test for this take of the oil filler cap and see if the engine starts. If it does it indicates quite strongly a seized turbo or a blocked exhaust system. Though less common on petrols it could help identify a cause. Out of interest I worked within the medical sector for 12 years. Now self employed but needing constant medical attention. Lol Regards Dan

Gareth and a Trevor are right. When you turn right it puts more weight onto the left bearing. Therefore if it is starting to deteriorate you here it grumble (If you turn left the weight leaves the left bearing so you don't hear it). However, if you have a Quattro the bearing on the rear of the car are 9/10 the same on the rear as the front and can therefore replicate the noise. On a 2 wheel drive car there is normally a tapered bearing so you would here the noise constantly, Dont despare too much on having the drivers side one done, it is very common for both sides to give up the ghost within a few hundred miles of each other.

Have had this problem with other vehicles, not needed to do this with the Audi. You might be better getting in touch with an independent ICE company like Absolut5. They specialise in VW transporters but do other vehicles too. They will be able to provide you with the correct connector. If they can't they will certainly point u in the right direction.

Have a good look at the earths in the car, particularly from engine to chassis. Make sure they are not loose or looking frayed or corroded.

I am referring to the emissions scandal, lots of cars have had the recall to 'rectify' the emissions cheat. There has been several cases of VAG cars in general then breaking down days or even hours later, sometimes resulting in engine failure.

Well jeal of that Jack BTW. Shame u don't live nearer to me 😜 You answered my first question, adjustment on the rear arms. If they are rusted solid then you haven't adjusted them. But this doesn't mean they are in correct alignment though. I don't normally recommend Kwik fit for anything but in the case of 4 wheel alignment they do have a great bit of kit. If they aren't out of alignment they don't charge either. But I bet the fronts could now do with a tweak anyway!! When I first got the A6, it was fine in the dry but any hint of wet and I couldn't even keep up with Miss Daisy in her ford slowcus. Especially going around roundabouts. I had 2 pirrelis on the front, a Michelin (I think) and a budget on the back. I switched the P's to the back and it did improve the rear end grip a little but not much. I think the tread was about 3-5mm on all 4 tyres btw. I bought 4 new tyres and it transformed the car. It corners on what feels like 2 wheels now without loosing traction at all. Especially noticeable in the wet too! Confidence is fully restored! hope that helps mate. where did you get ramp from btw?

Hi Mr Q, I suggest best thing to do would be to measure the discs you have on already and then measure clearance from outer edge of disc to inner edge of calliper. So if you have 300mm discs but there is 12mm to calliper edge then you could just squeeze in 320mm discs. ( totally fabricated those figures for example purposes only) Dont forget to check PCD measurement is the same on the new discs. Also that the disc thickness does not increase on original discs. However, don't forget that to have increase in braking performance you need bigger pads too. Standard sized pads will still only have the same contact area as on a standard disc! If you want to improve braking performance easiest method is trying uprated pads like greenstuff for example. If you do manage to source bigger discs that fit your standard callipers then a useful how to thread would be great,!?! You know I have been tempted to fit a pair of Brembo 4 pots that I found in the boot of the Mk1V Golf I recently bought (genuinely found them in there!) but I just don't see the A6 needing them. I could also try fitting them to the T5 but again the brakes in standard form make the van stand on its nose as it is. I just prefer spending money on good tyres which actually allow you to get the best out of any braking system. I guess I really am getting old and boring!!

Looks like u either bought it or someone else did?

If I had more time.... and shed loads more money!! Or maybe 1, no 2 no 3 less projects to do 😂

You haven't just had the immisions recal done have you?

Holy Cow, £270 to change oil and oil filter, I will do it for you for £250.... lol. Its a good question though. I would try phoning a couple local VAG specialists in the area and ask for a quote and get an email response on the warranty info. If however, its is not clear then at 2 years old I would not risk it and bite the bullet until the car is at least 3 years old. £270 though is a lot of money, let's over guess here, £10 for oil flush solution, £20 for a filter and £40 for 5 litres of oil. £200 for labour!?! In what can be done in 1 hour but maybe 2? Main stealers more like.

Hi Dayan, You might be better reposting this question as a new thread as you will likely get a better response. Could one of the Moderators do this for Him?

Nope, just been told be my niece I am old too 😦

😂 I am just poor!!

Wow!!

I am going to try Gtechniq products. I like the idea of having to do nothing but wash with water for 6 months 🤔😃

Totally fine to use on metallic as it's covered in a clear coat lacquer. I use Bilt Hamber clay bar. It's very soft so easy to grip. A good tip though is have a big peice of cardboard under area you are using it so if it drops it stays clean 👍 Always remember to at least wash car again with a wax wash but much better to polish to protect the clean paintwork. It's amazing how many times people forget to polish thinking the clay bar is a final thing. (Not saying you do mate though)

Give PPTuning a call. They are very well priced and sell small sections or tail pipes etc. However, you have a diesel turbo, the turbo kills so much of the noise and then add in a DPF and there is very little noise actually to come out of the exhaust. i have a 2.5 5 cylinder TD 174bhp in my Transporter, I drove around for nearly a 1000 miles wondering what this weird noise was. When I walked up a small hill (my drive) I could see the down pipe joint had actually failed where it connects to the middle box. In essence I had a straight through system that was blowing out about 1m behind where I was sitting and it was still so quite. Lol I am not an exhaust expert to be honest so not sure if you need to have a resonated or non resonated system though.

I am still getting used the engine names but I think the 8P is a petrol? If you are getting white smoke then the only cause can really be water ingress. (I am happy to be corrected here btw). Is your water level going down at all? Does you car have an EGR cooler? These seem to be prone to leak on VAG engines. When your engine is warm, but switched off. Carefully open the coolant expansion tank, you don't need to remove the lid fully, just release some pressure. If you see loads of bubbles rushing into the tank then it's a good sign that the head gasket has gone or the head has cracked! Redex is a good enough injector cleaner, try a double dose in a half tank and drive it for a few miles. Then fill it up and drive as normal. keep us updated!

My bad Gareth, I thought this was a petrol. Then injector problem could well be over fueling and causing white-ish smoke.

Can you elaborate a bit more on how the smoke presents. is it on acceleration? is it on the over run? plus, have you wiped your finger on the inside of the tailpipe? If so do you have an oily residue all over? i am thinking either Headgasket or valve stem oil seals?