Dan3222

Mr Q is right, not really worth the risk, why not just have the service a little early?

This is the only thing I would ever advise people to take a car to Kwik Fit for. They have an excellent 4 wheel alignment system that allows them to adjust the cars suspension alignments. Audi suspension is quite a complicated set up and someone with experience should really be doing this. Although, call Audi and ask what they will charge to realign the geometry of your A7's suspension. I recall Kwik fit charged me £75 to do my T5 but I bet I have saved that in tyre wear and therefore buying much more time before needing new tyres. Did you buy this car from a garage? I would also be tempted to call them and see if they would help?

On VAG vehicle a flashing glow plug light usually indicates an issue with the engine somewhere, 9/10 it's a sensor that has malfunctioned. I suggest you get your codes read and start from there. The glow plugs, when starting the car, would not so a flashing symbol, it would be a steady light for 2-3 seconds usually and then it would go out. welcome to the forum BTW. Update what happens.

There are bargains out there. I paid 3.5k for a saloon 163k miles 2.7 06 plate s-line. 2.7 derv. It ticked every box for me. Just don't buy the first one you see unless it is exactly what you want. (Sucking eggs?) be careful with a warranty though, there is so much small print. I had one on my T5, autogear box broke but the warranty said that the vehicle did not meet the criteria for a payout. They where happy to take my money to cover it though!!! Daylight robbery. Many people over look tyres when buying a car. Don't forget if it needs tyres they will be at least £100 a corner for only half decent brands. Mine needed 3 tyres so was a good bargaining tool!! Final thing to say, if you do have a 5k budget, may well be worth paying for an AA inspection or such like. £60 or so well worth spent. Even just to get the ECU read for potential sensor issues etc. Again, good luck. Dan

The 2.0 TFSI is an amazing engine. I had one for 3 days as a courtesy car, A4 Quattro, I didn't want to hand it back (about 5 years ago). It is always going to be pot luck whether a car you get will go wrong. I would definately use a reg checking app like TotalCarCheck. It gives all previous MOT info including advisories so you can check if these have been done. Without doubt these are well engineered cars. Just be picky, look for a well looked after car. Then keep your fingers crossed. Good luck though. Dan

Welcome to the forum mate. What a stunning car you have bought. My favourite TBH. Osram do a new build called the night breaker. They are a H1 build which I believe is the correct fitting for your light units. I have ordered a set of these for my van to try. They have good reviews though. I would be cautious about putting bigger wheel tyre combinations on front and rear axle because you have a Quattro. I really would recommend keeping things the same. I think you can go to 22" wheels with your car, I have certainly seen one A5 with them. But 19-20 look the best in my opinion, each to there own though I guess.

First you need to decide saloon or estate. Then basics for inside. Do you want leather for example? Do you want Quattro? It seems clear you want a derv, either 2.0, 2.7 or 3.0. All engines are great powerhouses. 2.0's do have a cam belt so check it's been done and when it's due. I have the 2.7 V6. Similar power to the 2.0 but it has a lazier effortless feel to it. The 2.0 is definately more economical one though. I have been lead to beleave though that my 2.7 and some 3.0's have a timing chains. Would personally like it to have that confirmed though. Personnaly I think you need to open up your mileage expectations though. Average on a 10 year old car is 120k.

Yeah, it's 120 for the T5. I was interested because they are a better size to match a pair of brembo 4 pots that I found in the boot of a Golf I bought recently. Thank you for taking the time though to check for me.

For the sake of how much a bottle of CAT cleaner is going to cost I would be trying that now before parting with any more money. Get it in and floor it once it's up to temperature. If that doesn't sort it then at least any bigger spends will be more justified. I am no expert on these sensors but I assume it's calculating the exhaust gases content before and after passing through the CAT matrix (just an educated guess), you have had the sensors changes so likelihood these are now at fault is very slim. So it makes sense that the Matrix needs a clean? Or a new one is needed. Magnets advice is good about trying other suppliers though, Audi will be very expensive.

Do you know by any chance what the repair kit is? I fancy trying this myself.

Over feeling!?! Autocorrect. Over fueling

Doug, did you get this sorted? Had my first experience of the fuel gauge not working today, plus it has never gone above 3/4 full reading even though it has been brimmed with fuel.

I have just checked. If they are for an A8 they won't fit the bus. Sorry.

Do you know the PCD measurement please? I am wondering if they would fit my T5?

Sounds like it over feeling until its gets to normal running temps. Too much diesel creates white smoke. I would get the engine codes read live, as the engine goes from cold to operating temperature. It might through up a code temporally that doesn't get stored by the ECU and therefore can't be found just by getting the codes read as it may not get stored.

Dazza, thanks for correcting me on the NO reduction. Was kinda trying to keep it simple in terms of the DPF, function of and potential issues if running DPF without EGR functioning correctly. Have seen several cores that have melted through because of the excessive carbon deposits once the EGR's have been deleted or blocked. The MOT thing is definately on the cards and I just think it's good advice to keep the DPF/CAT for just in case. It was proposed and my local MOT guy told me absolutely it. However, I recently spoke with him about it and he said it's not happening as quickly as first thought. He said that MOT stations are given notice on changes so that they have time to buy in the new equipment in plenty of time. But I think u have hit the nail on the head as they are struggling to get equipment to measure the HC's effectively. There might be some leeway on the age of a vehicle as to whether it would need testing on it. Last thing worth mentioning was he said the only way to potentially fool it will be to ensure that there is an injector cleaner in the fuel on test day. His words not mine. Out of interest Dazza, do you just run cooking oil or do you make you own biofuel?

In that case is it the DMF? Worst invention for cars!

Hey Gareth, TBH I don't know 100% what exactly your referring to on the recall stuff. Do you mean recall in general on EGR's or more specifically the immisions scandle. If the latter, I don't really know what exactly is being 'fixed' by the manufactures on the cars to remove the emissions cheat (I would be interested to know tbh). Everyone has their own opinion on EGR and DPF deletes. They are definately easier to do on older vehicles for sure but if you delete an EGR valve and you have a DPF (diesel particulate filter) fitted then you really should have the DPF hollowed out or have a dummy CAT box fitted (before I get trolled, the exhuast manufactures refer to the DPF box as a CAT. In fact, to complicate matters, my T5 has the DPF which also incorporates a CAT matrix in the same box). The reason being is that the crap that normally gets directed to the inlet manifold and burnt in the engine, via the EGR, now goes straight into the DPF matrix, blocking it up, causing bad running and even complete failure (excessive back pressure). (As Dazza said, have you seen the amount of carbon deposits on EGR's and the inlet manifold). So in an ideal world, yes get the EGR blanked or deleted and get rid of the DPF. But there is a legal and responsible aspect to consider too. The EGR's were invented to help reduce the higher levels of hydrocarbons released through the exhaust. Your choice if you want to bypass it, can you live with yourself? lol. Then there is the future MOT's to consider. It has been proposed to have the DPF tested for functionality soon. There are a lot of people out there with DPF deletes that could potentially be forced to re-fit a DPF to pass said MOT. I have yet to see a performance company that do the remapping and DPF deletes, comment on what this will all mean for them and their customers! Food for thought. My own personal opinion, be it right or wrong, is to keep everything in good working order. Regularly use a good quality injector cleaner like Millers or Rhino and also understand how to do a forced DPF clean. These standard systems can cope with a hell of a lot more power before they become restrictive in any way. But if I was wanting to extract max HP from my derv vehicle I would then blank the EGR and have a dummy CAT fitted. This way it can easily be revered if need be. Again though, I just wanted this to be a useful thread for reference on what needs to be done to their own vehicles should the EGR need deleting. last thing to say is oil type after EGR AND DPF delete are done. Just because the car might now not be on a long life service and not require the additives that included in 507 spec oil for example. You should always still use the same oil. You might be able to get a cheaper oil but for the sake of £5-£10 a year why would you even consider it. Use the best oil that your car was designed to use, always. My tuppence worth anywho!!😉

Hhmmm, it's food for thought for any owners getting there cars serviced outside Audi. Could put a lot of people off buying if they don't have proof of services!

Have you had the codes read? Do you have the engine management light on occasionally? my gut says new turbo. What miles are you on? Welcome to the forum too.

I think you have already hit the nail on the head mate, fuel filter. Change that first and see how you get on with that. If it is a blocked fuel filter, it starves the engine of fuel under more rapid acceleration, causing a judder. Injector cleaner is always a good thing to use too. welcome to the forum mate too.

Check in the service book for any details on last service. It could be as simple as for some reason the Audi system was not updated on last service? Other reason may be that it was done at an independent garage, hence not on Audi's computer system. If you can't find anything at all though for most recent service I would be tempted to buy another vehicle considering there are so many available. Good luck.

That's a good call actually Trevor, if the cambelt is out by a tooth it would run potentially a little lumpy.

Pleased the trip is going well Mr Q. I can't believe you only did 335 miles in day one, I do that sometimes in one day without leaving Scotland 😂. keep the posts and photos coming. BTW. I never realised I was old enough to be your Dad!!

I have read several threads that mention EGR deletes. I am hoping people can add to this thread with their own experiences of EGR deletes. I write it because of the change in ECU technologies on how the EGRs work. Basically, when EGRs were first used introduced, although electronically deployed they are vacuum operated, the less complicated ECU's could not tell if the EGR was actually working or not or even if actually still fitted. However, in more recent years ECU's can tell if they ARE fitted and sense if they ARE working. To try to elaborate a little more. VW on the T5's used a simple EGR system up to 2006 that could be blocked or deleted with ease at home. However, on 2006 onward vehicles, the delete/block would not be accepted by the ECU as it electrically deploys the open/close function and detects the results or now lack of, giving an immision warning light. The two solutions are either SW (SoftWare) delete of EGR function or drilling a hole in the blank, allowing the pressure sensor to be tricked into thinking the EGR is still fully functional. This in turn leads to the point of me starting this thread. I think it would be a useful info resource for each type of car A1 - Q7 if just the blocking delete worked or not. Be interesting to see if certain models had the change at different years etc. My own personal opinion on an EGR delete/blank is only useful if the EGR is actually causing an issue. I do not see how the blanking etc significantly increases performance (mainly relating to turbo's here). As they are only open on idle or on cruising (I am happy to be corrected on the latter btw) and closed on acceleration!!! A closed EGR is the same as a blank.