Dan3222

These V6’s are not the easiest to work on and someone with experience with them would be best, hence my suggestion. If it was the 2.0, 1.9 or even the 1.6 TDI then that is a different matter as they are commonly fitted in many many vehicles.

If it’s that Rev specific then the two places I would be starting is replaceing fuel filter and having turbo checked. A partially blocked filter only shows problems on higher fuel demand, restricting fuel causing judder. A worn turbo impellercan cause loss of power as it spools to a certain rpm that starts to restrict power. Might also potentially be the DMF? But this would not cause white smoke!

Yes seals should sort this. Is there an independent Vw Audi specialist or diesel specialist you could get a quote from to do this?

Not if you go fast enough!!

I would normally say the feed to the filter. But your aim here is to see if clamping makes a difference. Try one hose one night, another hose another night, see if you get different results. Just remember to remove it before starting the engine. At least they didn’t charge you for this work this time.

It probably means there is a leak so the level is going down, then you use it a bit and the sensor comes on again. My A6 does this if I point it nose down, fluid leaks out on floor.

Hi Ian, very high chance that is a leaky injector, if it’s definately derv making the oil level rise. Check under oil filler cap, if there’s loads of white/yellow gunk you have water in the oil. Shouldn’t be much of anything there if it’s diesel. lift dip stick out and wipe off on tissue paper, smell the paper to see if it smells of diesel. If it is deiesel in the oil I am not suprprised it smokes on idle. Probably does on acceleration too. Be careful, not good for lots of derv in the oil. Cant see it being a turbo issue.

That doesn’t make too much sense to me, why does it start ok if back is up when parked overnight? Asking again, have you tried clamping the pipes yet?

A yellow light regarding oil level is not to worry about. Just means the oil level is reaching minimum level so it’s like a warning to check the dip stick. The word sensor is a new one to me and rightly so I would be changing the sensor too. I am not a fan overall though of relying on sensors for oil level. I check my cars once a month and the vans very week. The sensor in the Peugeot Boxer is very inaccurate too. Much prefer a manual check.

Cliff has a point, you could test the pump is working but you can do this without removing it. I use and glass milk bottle for this, take the feed pipe off at the tandem pump leaving the other end connected to the filter obviously, place end of pipe in the bottle. Turn ignition on for 5 seconds, repeat. You should see fuel start to fill the milk bottle.

Simon, I am really sorry about this. I was absolutely sure it was going to be the primary pump. I have been going through this in my head for a while now and the more I think about it it still has to be fuel related. If it was low compression in a cylinder, glow plugs, dodgy injector etc then the parking the rear of the car up would make no difference to how easily it starts. Even cold start timing or fuelling issues have been outruled by parking to rear up in the air. I even thought about the injector loom being an issue but again elevation of the rear would/should make no difference. I was going to say that it must now be the tandem pump but it seems you have already refurbed that. Have you tried clamping any of the hoses yet? one per night to see if it identifies an issue. i will have a read around the T5 forum a bit more and see if any of the long long threads on there can offer an alternative theory. Will have to do it later on tonight though as I have to put my T5 back together. 5 hours graft yesterday just to get to and remove the alternator. What a mare of a job. Once again, apologies for any suggestions from this forum (and me) on how you have spent pennies on this problem. Of course we are only trying to help. When I got my first T5 I was sold a lemon. It had come with a £3200 receipt for a auto gearbox rebuild. Once it was delivered to me I took it for a test drive and it shook really bad under any load at all. The forum first suggested drive shafts but I knew it was that but changed them anyway. No difference. Took it in to a gearbox specialist. They rebuilt it again at a cost of £3700. Still no difference. I changed the fuel filter £70!! It was sorted. It turned out to be partially blocked, letting enough fuel through to start and gently accelerate but starved fuel on bigger demands creating a vibration through the engine due to lack of fuel. My point, he sighs, I feel your pain!!

That is absolutely stunning. I wish I could find the money. How long have you had it?

Chill

There an option to take. You can take the car into a VAG garage and have the DPF cleaned. In a nut shell the car engine is run using a computer program which cycles the engine RPM’s to produce a burn that cleans the filter. This is only successful if you take the vehicle in before the DPF gets too clogged. If you don’t do many miles you don’t really have to do extra trips everyday. Just occasionally, when the engine is fully warmed up just drive in say 3rd gear instead of 5th for bursts of about one minute. This produces very hot exhaust gasses which burn the soot build up in the DPF. And, again when engine is up to temp just boot the car occasionally, have a bit of fun, safely of course.

Ok, so there are a few versions of the 1.8T DOHC engine. But the general consensus is the the breather housing and hose are located (while standing at the front of the car) on of the right side Of the cylinder head located towards the front corner. The breather housing is secured by 1 bolt to the cylinder head. On some cars you may need to remove a plastic cover from the top of the engine to get to the breather housing. If you remove the hose first and then the housing you should be able to clean this out. Hope that helps

Ok. A permenant fix if a little extreme.😉 If anyone wants to go down this route just one screw would be sufficient but, and this is a big but, you must ensure all the metal debris is cleared out of the internal of the pipes as that being blown into the internals of the engine could be pretty bad for the engine. I still think new o-ring sell for the pipe plus a new clip would sort it fine.

Ok, give me 24hrs. Can’t promise anything but I will try. I have a golf 1.8t I will have a look at that too but I won’t get chance to see that until the weekend, I have a very busy week this week.

Your better putting your reg into a parts suppliers site and do search for Glow plugs. Try GSF. They currently have a great promo on too.

I am guessing you have a TDI. What engine do you have? I will do a bit of reasearch for you.

Can you post a picture of the pipes? We might be able to help better. Plus let us know what engine you have too. Buy a Haynes manual. Best source of pictures and explanations to do 95% of jobs on any car.

You can purchase new clips cheap enough. It’s a common fault on all VAG vehicles. To explain why you have big drop in power it’s because to pressurised air (from a turbo or supercharger) being forced into the engine is escaping . So the engine can’t make the power it is supposed to be doing. I am surprised your car isn’t going into limp mode too, as the ECU will be picking up low boost signals. i am interested to see the fix Paul 👍

Probably easiest way to find out which items fit your car is do a search on eBay. Use the will this fit my vehicle on top right when looking at the springs etc. often diesels have uprated suspension parts, bigger drive shafts etc. So be mindful of what you buy on a whim.

It would be worth seeing if warranty covers light unit. If it doesn’t you can drive the water out by using tin foil (unless it quite full of water) open bonnet and wrap tin foil around the lense of the light. Turn on lights, probably with engine running. Leave on for 10 mins. Switch lights off. Remove the tin foil. You will have a dry light. Any condensation will have been forced out.

Tbh not to sure, you might have to kinda hook it under the screen before putting screws in, some of these panels have a lip that sits under the screen.

That’s a result. More than likely because it was an exact copy the ecu recognised it and therefore did not need codeing for new part.