Dan3222

Cheers Piotr.

Would you tell me where you go the sticker from please. I would appreciate it.

Just be careful if you get part worns. They will need almost the exact wear or in other words same amount of tread left. If you put differing tyres on it can contribute to ill handling whilst cornering, especially in the wet. Each to their own on budget vs 'better brand. But always do pairsie front or rear axle on a 4x4. Shouldn't matter then if you use different brands. I am a big fan of Uniroyal rain sport 3 tyres. Have them on the A6,T5 and partners Mazda 3. I will be using them on the hill climbing car (if I get chance to do it) too as the grip is so good. Currently on 24k on the set of 4 on the T5 right now with 4mm left :-) great value for money vs budget in my book.

Don't forget to put up the ICE mod you did for Bluetooth music!!

Hey Piotr, Hope your well. does the S-line sticker cover the whole surface of the control knob? Mine has started pealing the black rubber paint. I think I prefer the look of the sticker though any way. Dan

There are loads all over the place but only a few with good feedback. Unfortunately you don't mention if it's a manual or an auto but I would gues auto. Either way, do a google search for automatic gearbox services, Derby, see what pops up. The auto specialists will do manuals too. Manual specialists can't do auto's because they won't have the correct test equipment...... if that makes sense!! Your talking about £2.5- 3.5k for a rebuild of an auto.

Peace of mind versus money in wallet. I do between 40-50k a year in my VW transporter 2.5 TDI. At 120k It needed a new turbo. I recall about £650 for a new one versus £300 (plus £100 back on return of the old unit) for a recon from 'Biturbocar'. Because I can do most things myself I fitted this and overhauled the exhaust and induction system parts at the same time. The van is now on 163k and it has not missed a beat......... so far. However, the general consensus is that it's the luck of the draw on how good a refurb unit will be in terms of longevity. So my only advice is go for a recon with at least a 1yr guarantee but try to get one with a 2 year cover if you can. Or if in any doubt go new for peace of mind.

I have read a few times that VAG cars have reoccurring faults with these sensors in particular. For how much it costs it's a peace of mind thing for me.

Hi Gavo, i have been away from forums in general for a few weeks. Was really hoping you had this all sorted by now. Lol, just reread the whole post and it's like a soap opera!! Would love to hear if you are now sorted or indeed are waiting for the sound to worsen to help diagnose. Regards Dan

I used to get that on my Mazda 6's. The flap catching I mean. Hopefully that's you and your car sorted though mate.

Genuine thanks Mr Q, I have told Glen. He says Thanku too. Dan

You might find that paying someone to helicoil and fit a new sump plug might not be much more or less money than changing the sump itself. A second hand sump will be the cheapest option, I bet you could get one for £25 from a breakers. However, sump removal is not always that straight forward. There are many cars that require a lot of things taken off to allow the sump to come away from the block. Bare that in mind, it might not be a driveway DIY thing. Has anyone got experience with sump removal while engine is in situ? Out of interest, not everyone knows but you should really always have a new sump plug each time you have the oil changed, the compression washer is the reason why. However, I generally change one every 3 oil changes. To avoid the weeping of oil and the net result of overtightening, as has happened here.

Cheers Mr Q. yeah that's almost to the moon isn't it?. Dan

Hi ladies and gents, could anyone tell me correct oil to use in my mates 2.5 V6 2002 please. There is conflicting advice on the old WWW. many thanks in advance Dan

Vlb, ouch!! What a nightmare. As you are in Edinburgh may I suggest a phone call to Mackies in Tolcross Glasgow, 01417784545 for some impartial advice on the best way forward. Your gearbox is not repairable though in my opinion. I would only accept a full rebuild or a complete replacement box. Ask in writing what the garage is willing to do to rectify this situation for you. Hope it goes ok.

Most probably the strut tops making that sort of noise. One of my vehicles does it but it actually doesn't bother me.

Welcome to the forum. What a cool car btw even with these problems. As far as code readers go I am sure a general OBD11 reader or such like would talk to your car. Never heard of specific ones for engine sizes but I could be wrong! My bet is these faults where there when you bought the car and the codes had been deleted hence no warning lights for under 100 miles. Best bet is get the codes read correctly and deal with each one in turn. I guess the box is an automatic, this could just be low oil level. Particularly with a 'clunk' on engaging a gear. Other cause of that is commonly the solanoid for gear selection. My advice here is start the car and let it warm up for about 5 mins. The clunking should go away. Get the oil level checked somehow too. If you bought this car from a garage you should approach them to see what they can do to assist here, less than 100miles!! Not fit for purpose! Best of luck with it all.

Cheers Trevor, The day was brilliant and some of the cars quite special. No Audis or Golfs there though!! I really cheesed a bloke off there too lol. I said I could probably get up the track faster than the Westfields in my A6 in the heavy rain that occurred in the afternoon with my Uniroyal tyres. I was only joking, well half 🙃 joking but he ripped me a new one😜 So the list is as so.... NB I have my own idea on the best car and then also the easiest to prep. All of which have to be either rebuilt or re MOTed but I am more interested in which car people think would be best irrespective of the amount of work they may need. 1982 Golf GTI 1.6 110BHP 1972 TVR 2500 BHP from 125-180 1990 Tigra 1.6i (16V ) 120bHP 1982 MG Midget 1500. 70BHP 2004 Golf GTI MKIV 18 T. 150BHP Answers on a post card please. My other idea is flog the MKIV to fund the project?

Does anyone have any info they would be willing to share on Hillclimb experience? I attended the Harewood Hall Hillclimb this weekend and got quite a buzz from it. From properly radicalised classics like a Fiat 500 with an R1 engine over the back wheels, Scoobies and Evos making it look easy even in the wet to formula 2 style cars. However the class that takes my fancy is the road going unmodified class. It was great fun watching 205's, Saxo's and 3 stunning S2000's (which where my favorites on the day) tearing up a purpose built track!! So before I list a few of the cars I currently own that I am thinking on preparing i thought I would ask if anyone can give info on potential initial set up costs and then yearly budgets required. any info would be gratefully received. If people are interested I can list the cars I have and would think of using, but none of which are Audi so I would understand if nobody would be bothered. Thanks in advance.

Welcome back from the dark-side Colin. Wish I had 23k!! My advice with a warranty is make sure the car 100% actually qualifies for it. If it doesn't they will not pay out even though you have a policy. I had one on a van, because it had missed 2 services i.e., had them late in a previous ownership they would not contribute to an autogearbox rebuild. They where happy to take my money for the years cover though!! Just be cautious, that's my only advice.

The TT will be fun. Yesterday I had the pleasure of driving around Scotland in the new Civic type R. 316bhp of awesomeness!! This car has the Nurburgring record at the moment for a front wheel drive car. I am still smiling some 24hrs later.

Absolutely gorgeous!! But, the chap in the video lip syncing is terrible and the pube on the steering wheel is quite of putting 😂

Let us know what you decide to do.

A big brake upgrade is always going to be best for avoiding brake fade but, if you don't want to go for that then drilled and groved disks with road/track pads, EBC being the most popular and fresh brake fluid (this gets rid of any water in the old fluid which has a lower boiling point). Will make a big difference too. Will it be enough for the 'ring' I guess experience will tell. Dont forget though that performance pads only work well when warmed up. On daily road use the first few times used each day will not be that good until heat gets into them.

Just serviced the engine. New filters and fresh oil plus a ZX1. Have to say that's the easiest vehicle I have worked on in years. Car is now ready for the trip down to Harewood Hillclimb event. Mr Q, I get to play with the Type R this afternoon. I will let you know how it goes.😈