QuattroMark

I get what you are saying - but whatever happens I have to fix the leak on this particular head - and the evidence is there regarding the overrun, so i was thinking it maybe prudent to change stem seals ( and check valves) at the same time considering the amount of stripping down i'd have to do anyway - once that bank is done I would do the other.....the car is an absolute workhorse, close to 200K miles now and it is one of the best Audis I have ever owned - and i'd like to keep her running. best, Mark

Thanks for the replies - Looking closer I think the leak is from the gasket between the head and the cam girdle - the question is.....do I take the head off as well while I am there so I can replace valve stem seals...or better left alone - and then also, do I replace top chain tensioners while it is all apart - This could go downhill very quickly!! Mark

My A6 (AUK engine) uses quite a lot of oil - I removed the undertray to see if I could see where it originated from - the tray was soaked! However, after a week or so of driving and parking overnight there was no sign of oil on the floor but quite a lot on the underside of the car, even though I had received a low oil warning earlier. Its possible it is only losing while driving. While I was doing a service on the car I noticed that the vacuum pump was covered in oil and grime as were the pipes underneath the pump - I bought a seal kit for the pump and fitted it thinking this was my problem.......unfortunately not! still getting oil warning indications. After a little more investigation and removing the whole air intake section i noticed that the rear part of the drivers side block was soaked in oil. Looking at 7Zap there is the rocker cover and a gasket, the camshaft frame and gasket and the head and gasket. Its difficult to see exactly where the oil is coming from, but seeing as though I have no performance issues, water loss, oil in water, water in oil etc I'm thinking (hoping!) that the head and gasket to the block is ok. I don't particularly want to remove the head, however, I have noticed smoke from the exhaust when I hit the gas after cruising downhill using engine braking only - this I think is valve stem seals letting oil pass - I am presuming that the head has to come off to replace the stem seals? Anybody had experience of camshaft carrier and head removal? - thanks Mark

Not sure about the fuse, but I have recently had to replace the siren. Remove the scuttle panels that sit upto the windscreen (1 of the clips to the bottom of the screen) -underneath this on the passenger side (UK car) you will see a box which houses an ECU - it is behind that!! - I had to remove the lid of the box to get to the siren. Mark

Finally got around to this.... Bought DVD navigation drive from eBay - £39.00, bought the power connectors from Audi £6, bought the bits to make a MOST loop from eBay £10, bought a antenna extension cable from eBay £8. Plugged everything up in the boot - removed the last bit of roof lining in the rear and found the unused GPS antenna cable for the sharks fin - turned everything on....hey presto it actually works!!!! - Just waiting for the latest version Nav DVD to arrive. So just short of £60 and an hour of time and i have working Sat Nav. Also just added an original Audi DAB module ( £40 eBay) - now got DAB radio! - got to admit, if you are going to do any mod, i would recommend fitting DAB. Mark

Problem solved!!! It turns out that the alarm horn has an internal battery - which is prone to leaking all over the PCB inside. Took me ages to find it - It was tucked up by the nearside A pillar - behind the ECU plastic box. The only bit you can see is a bolt, the horn itself is completely hidden. Had to remove the scuttle panel, both wiper arms, the windscreen deflector panel and finally remove the lid of the ECU container! Replacement off ebay was £16!! Mark

About 3 months ago while my car was parked outside work - what i thought was the alarm started sounding - It was a regular beep ( about 1 per second) and it seemed to be coming from the RHS underneath the scuttle panel under the bonnet. The beeping went on for about 20 seconds - stopped for 10 seconds and then carried on. No matter what i did i could not stop this. I unlocked the car with the fob - locked the car - beeping still there. It would just not stop. There were NO indicators flashing which i thought was odd considering the alarm was going off. I decided to leave it to see what it did - after about an hour it stopped beeping but the indicators were flashing! when i returned an hour after this episode everything seemed ok. I scanned with VCDS but no fault codes. A couple of weeks later the same thing happened around 7PM - the car had been parked for about 1 hr. Again nothing would stop the beeping - so i started the car up and left it running for about 2 minutes ( still beeping at this time) - turned the car off and locked with the key fob - the beeping stopped. Did another VCDS scan, nothing recorded. Everything has been fine until 1:30 AM this morning! - started beeping - nothing would stop it - tried disabling the interior monitoring ( switches on the B pillar) - started the engine for 2 minutes - hey presto the beeping stopped. Another VCDS scan - nothing recorded! Anybody any ideas? Mark

Had my A6 C6 3.2 FSI quattro for around 6 months now - had a few minor issues along the way....but generally all good. My latest issue, probably something to do with a change in the weather - The HOT/COLD controls seem to be all over the place - if I switch from hot to cold it stays hot for around 30 mins then slowly cools down - if i turn the engine off and leave it for 5 mins then turn back on the blower is cold.....however i have noticed that i can't get cold aircon to blow at all, the air is quite tepid- the system is pressurised it just seems that the temperature will not go low enough. It seems like none of the flaps are working correctly - I can hear them moving, or at least i can hear the motors running - Is there a way of resetting these? And most recently i have noticed that during a long drive, after around 2 hrs the car just steams up- to the point where I have to stop! It will be like this for the rest of the drive.....however leave it overnight and the following morning it is ok - I am not loosing water and there doesn't seem to be any evidence of leaking into the car. ideas anybody?

No DVD unit in the boot - there is only the radio unit..... Been having a look to see which DVD player I need and there are a couple of options....guessing will also need a power split lead and a MOST fibre splitter....

So must be mmi2g high - certainly have 6.5" screen - and because I have red green and blue pages it isn't red monochromatic .........also I saw a 2g basic system yesterday....the screen is not as big top to bottom and is pure red!!!!!

this is my issue - A work friend of mine has a basic 2.0 A6 2006....this has full sat nav with colour screen - but when you scroll through the various things - phone book is green - traffic is blue and radio is red - only on sat nav do you get full colour - this is a MMI High system.... I just presumed mine was the same....just no Sat Nav....... when you look at the spec of my car - its usually equipped with Mmi high.....but this is Audi we are talking about..... there doesn't seem to be a definitive way of seeing which is which - however, I am new to the A6 C6 world, so its a learning curve for me... Any pointers will be greatly appreciated!!!! Mark

Milk

No - I have just got a CD multi changer in the glove box..... Also doing a bit of digging ( some of the info is VERY ambiguous) I think I need a different screen - mine shows only Red Green Or blue - and not full colour - although I may have got that wrong! thanks Mark

My 2005 A6 has MMI 2 High ( v 55.7.0) but without Sat Nav - anybody know if this can be easily upgraded to Sat Nav and more importantly what is needed? thanks Mark

If you are just replacing the circuit board - then it is just plug and play - just make sure you get the right one.....there are loads on eBay...I know this as I have just done this with mine! If you were replacing the MMI module ( behind the screen) then you would need to recode - or at least have someway of checking (VCDS etc) if the new module is option coded correctly for your vehicle.

I am slowly resurrecting a 2005 A6 3.2 quattro which has stood for 2 years - Obviously its had to have a new battery - removed all plugs and did compression tests - everything was in order - She fired first turn of the key!!! A tiny bit lumpy but hey - she started! I have managed to get rid of 99% of the fault codes, but I need a bit of help with the following: Address 01: Engine (AUK) Labels:. 06E-910-559-BKH.clb Part No SW: 4F1 910 559 N HW: 4F1 907 559 Component: 3.2l V6 FSI 0010 Revision: --H15--- Serial number: Coding: 010D0003190F0120 Shop #: WSC 02325 785 00200 VCID: 3668EC774105EBFA37-8062 3 Faults Found: 005715 - Please check DTC Memory of ABS Controller P1653 - 008 - Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00101000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 253282 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2005.02.01 Time: 13:18:29 Freeze Frame: RPM: 704 /min Mass Air / Rev.: 152.6 mg/str Temperature: 46.5°C Idle Load: 22.7 % Speed: 0.0 km/h 001632 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit (Bank 1) P0660 - 009 - Elect. Malfunction Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100100 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 253282 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2005.02.01 Time: 13:18:31 Freeze Frame: RPM: 704 /min Mass Air / Rev.: 147.2 mg/str Temperature: 46.5°C Idle Voltage: 13.77 V Speed: 0.0 km/h 005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30 P1602 - 008 - Voltage too Low Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01011000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 0 km Time Indication: 0 Freeze Frame: RPM: 0 /min Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str Temperature: 51.0°C Engine Off Load: 0.0 % Speed: 0.0 km/h these faults will not clear - anybody help?

So - managed to get a bit of time to look at this - removed the plastic rocker cover to expose the cam and injectors - cam belt was still there, no obvious damage. Turned the engine over...….the serpentine belt spun - but the cam belt didn't....I'm guessing the teeth on the crank pulley have stripped the belt and obviously the pistons have now hit the valves..…. don't think its worth repairing - its got 255K on the clock and this is the first time it has let me down in the 8 years of ownership. I did look at engine reconditioning - but there are some real horror stories out there and some real scam artists! Mark

My B7 Avant suffered engine failure on Monday - driving on the M1, there was no drama, no bang or strange noises, no engine parts scattered across the carriageway just lost total power and the dashboard lit up - coasted onto hard shoulder and turned everything off - turned ignition back on - only light not showing was the oil light - turned the engine over and it cranked fast - sounded like there was no compression. Car has been recovered but I had to carry on my journey so not had time to investigate - AA recovery chap said it was cam belt....but couldn't confirm it. Not really up on diesels but it does sound terminal. First thoughts? Mark

Hi Martin, In short - yes it is sorted......but not in the way i hoped!!! I ended up refurbing all 4 injectors - I replaced the unit that was out of tolerance and it made no difference on its own, however after changing the other 3 ( what i thought were ok) injectors it was like a different car - there was still some 'noise' there but no where near as bad............it was then suggested that the EGR was replaced, I was a bit unsure about this as it was only changed 2 years ago after total failure.........again, the difference was incredible. The noise I have now is attributed to engine wear and the remap......I am considering getting it put back to stock.......just to see if it makes any difference. However, I t really is like a different car now, so i guess i may live the the slight noise!! Mark

I have had exactly the same issue with my B7 - First of all, does the PRND panel on the dashboard light up - if it does its likely to be one of the solenoids IN the gearbox - that condition would also register a fault code - As stated in a previous post you need to get your car scanned for fault codes, it can save you many hours searching. My particular fault when I lost drive was a leaking hydraulic pipe for the transmission cooler - eventually there was not enough oil left to drive - THIS DID NOT GENERATE A FAULT CODE. I had a filter change and fluid change ( its doable for a home mechanic) but I would get a garage to do it - unfortunately you will need an Audi specialist or dare I even say a main dealer.......its quite a specific routine. There are many Audi auto gearbox repairers out there - do a google search, most of them seem to be in the Birmingham area! ...and just for reference, when you say diagnosed as a clutch problem - which one? - there are SEVEN clutches in your auto box good luck Mark

So just an update to this topic - changed injector #1 cleaned out the messed up EGR and the car now idles really smooth - my only issue now is that when I start the car It sounds a little noisy, but relatively smooth - readings shown below: Take a look at group 3 - especially block#4......... After about 4 minutes there is a noticeable change in engine note - and this is what I get : For some reason the EGR duty cycle goes through the roof - as does block 2 & 3 - the car is still at idle @903 rpm - if I blip the throttle then the readings go back to around the same as on start up....after 4 mins it reverts back to the same as above. Any ideas ?

Hi Martin, My 2.0l BLB engine sounds exactly like yours - It didn't before the remap, started about 18 months ago - I didn't have my egr blanked off, but the remap has certainly affected it as the readings on VCDS are all over the place - I know you have had the EGR removed, but look at block 4 in group 3 under ENGINE in VCDS - is it at 100% all the time? And also, the cam lobes look fine to me - as for the timing, your torsion value is 0.5 so I cant see how your timing can be out - one thing that made a difference to mine was when I reset the backlash on the injectors after replacing one of them - I'm hopefully going to see a diesel specialist next week for him to try and figure out what is causing the noise - spoke to him over the phone and he seems quite confident !!! Mark

So, got the starter motor put on by a tame spanner monkey yesterday - what a difference! you can just tell by the sound of the new starter that the old one must have been totally shot - car starts within a second of turning the key, unlike the 3 seconds previously. Not had chance to see the old unit yet - i'll try and get to see what state it was in tomorrow. Mark

Hi Gareth, You've got the jist of what I am talking about - It wouldn't start again last night(20 mins) and this morning (10 mins) just making the same old whirring noise with the very occasional clunk of it meshing with the flywheel for a split second before stopping. Had a mechanic mate have a listen to it last night - he is convinced its a tired starter motor. Going to get one ordered and get the garage next door to work to put it on - I would do it but I just don't have the time. Dan, - good point! - I'll have a look around later thanks guys Mark

Hi Gareth Battery is new - well, 3 months old! - I understand your theory of a potential duff battery, I had it with my Quattro turbo - It span the engine, but JUST not quite quick enough for it to start. This however just sounds like the starter spinning on its own - I doubt there are missing teeth on the flywheel - otherwise it would never have started - the car is 2005 and has done nearly 250K miles, so it should kind of be expected. Possibly all the grease/lubrication has dried out. Might try and see if I can get underneath and squirt a WD40 like fluid in it to see if it helps - I don't have the 2 hrs to remove it right now!! Mark