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Everything posted by Rob82DZL
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RED OIL LIGHT ISSUE - OPINIONS NEEDED
Rob82DZL replied to christiebowman's topic in Audi A3 (8L) Forum
Hi Gareth, With the astra it was poor maintainence prior to my ownership! It had high milage and drank oil at a rate of 1lt every 1000 miles (but didn't smoke to much or leak!). The blockage was the numerous drain holes that had virtually sludged up over time down through the head. Basically mosy the oil would end up sat under the rocker cover slowly draining back down to the sum! So occationally I'd get the oil warning light if I booted for more than about 30 sec! Then it would clear it self! Best thing that ever happen to that car was death! 😂😂- 9 replies
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- redoillight
- audia32001
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Got mine too but not without a drama! So I'm reading through the thread seeing everyone getting theres so I ask the wife if she'd seen mine in thr post and she said yes I've put it on the notice board. Well! She put the slip saying your ticket is enclosed on the notice board and throw the ticket in the bin along with the envelope. So after 15 minuets of bin diving my ticket has been retrived! 😊. (She's lucky!!!!).
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Electric motors don't have a torque curve they produce maximum torque from the second you go! If you want a giggle search YouTube for electric drag cars there insane!!!!
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RED OIL LIGHT ISSUE - OPINIONS NEEDED
Rob82DZL replied to christiebowman's topic in Audi A3 (8L) Forum
Hi christiebowman, I agree with Magnet get the oil flush and replaced with a premium quality 10w40. The higher viscosity will help if there's excessive ware on the engine. Another possibility but I'm not sure on the 1.6 petrol could be a partially blocked oil way from the head back to the sump. I had very similar symptoms on an old Astra which turned out to be a blocked oil way from the head back to the sump! It usually gets caused due to mixing different brands of oil over time. (big no no, never mix different bands/grades of oil, it'll come back to haunt you at some point!) Food for thought :)- 9 replies
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- redoillight
- audia32001
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So the one thing that still doesn't make sense to me is that it would be fine using this as a metric for both fueled and electric cars but to me that will just add more confusion! So I get the bit about converting bhp in kw but on a fueled car that's specific to the engine output. On an electric car kw specifically refers to the battery output and not the electric motor output so on both car there effectively trying to use the same measure for two completely different things! So it put it into perspective, a Nissan Leaf Visia 24Kw by these terms would be a 32bhp. I like to see something with only 32bhp get to 62mph in 11.6 sec!!!! What it actually has is an 80Kw output motor which translates to around 110hp which is why it can do the 0 - 60 in 11.6. Before any of this gets unified into one power output system the electric car market needs to change how they advertised the power output from the battery size to motor output! Anyway, who would like to see an "Audi A3 70 TFSI" (W10 maybe! )
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M*A*S*H is worth a viewing both the film and the TV series which resulted from a sequel to the film failing! I'm hoping you seen "Band of Brothers", probably without doubt the best military themed TV series ever produced :)
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Hi Paul, how do you get on with the "Vinyl and Leather Care" stuff compared to other products. I would asume being Autoglim it doesn't leave any sort of residue, does it?
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Looking very nice indeed :) I'll be doing mine sometime this week and I'll post some pic's once she's shiny again! :)
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Hi mate was that your post on the FB page? if so I think this is what you need, not sure why they list a right and left hand side but here's both links: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A3-Sport-Back-Right-Parcel-Shelf-String-8V4867668-/171927255737?hash=item2807a9bab9:g:Zo4AAOSwHmhV8Xpl http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A3-Sport-Back-Left-Parcel-Shelf-String-8V4867667-/171927254460?hash=item2807a9b5bc:g:Zo4AAOSwHmhV8Xpl Hope this helps :)
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I recently been looking into investing in a decent polishing mop (angle grinder type) has anyone got any recommendations?
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I saw that mate cheers :) Hopefully it'll gather some good content over time.
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I did see that as well as plenty of others but there isn't one thread which members can scroll through to see post relating to all aspect of car cleaning and detailing under the same thread! Also if they haven't been commented on for some time they get pushed down the lists and as different aspects of cleaning/detailing aren't consolidated under one thread it makes viewing less fluid! Maybe we could have one of the threads made into a sticky which will stay at the top but as I mentioned it would be difficult to pick an existing one as my idea would be to consolidate all aspects under one thread for easy viewing.
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Just to clarify the second bucket with clean water isn't to rinse off the shampoo but to rinse any dirt and grit from the sponge. I use one of them one's that have the really soft finger but only on one side, I let it float in the clean water bucket fingers side down and sort of ruffle them some any debris will fall out. Ha ha reading over my original post I missed out the rinse after the shampoo, I do that with my pressure washer, so step 5) should be a rinse!
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Anyone know if this is something that can be done via VAGcom software with laptop? just a though!
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To get the ball rolling I thought I share how I generally go about cleaning my pride and joy, so here we go! 1) I start with a full rinse with the pressure washer to remove as much loose dirt and grit as possible. I usually go over the bottom half of the car twice for good measure. 2) Next I clean the wheels one at a time which takes anywhere from 15 - 40 min per wheel depending on if I'm just cleaning or applying wheel wax as well. For this I usually use non-acid based cleaners like "Merlin's Blood", but I've run out of that at the moment so I've got some Swarfega wheel cleaner. This is an acid base one which I wouldn't normally use but so far has done the job quite well and is quite cheap for a 5 ltr bottle. Generally a chefs pastry brush, a tooth brush and a soft cloth are the only tools need to finish the job. Remember if you do you an acid based cleaner to thoroughly rinse afterwards especially if you have painted calipers as well! 3) Next I usually give another rinse round the car again as the moisture sat on any muck and grit for the duration of cleaning the wheels will likely come off now. 4) Now for the shampoo, At the moment I'm using a cheap "Carplan" brand shampoo which I can't really say anything bad about, it does have a wax in it which if I'd noticed I'd prefer one without the wax! Although it does help with drying the car. I always use the two bucket method, one clean one with your shampoo. This is highly advisable especially if you have a black car! Now some may say this next bit of my method is wrong but I'll explain why I do it. Most will say you should always work from the bottom up so you can see where you have been! I "ALWAYS" work from the top down, the reason being is that although I've already thoroughly rinsed the car several time by this stage I work from the top down to reduce the risk of pulling grit up the paint work from the generally dirtier lower sections of the car. For anyone not familiar with the to bucket method it's: a) your sponge in the shampoo bucket b) then to car c) then rinse in clean water bucket d) repeat from step "a" 5) Next I towel dry the car with large microfiber towels. I find this to be kinder to you paintwork than chamois leather which car easily pull missed grit across you paint work giving you more to do when you get to polishing! 6) Once dry I then polish the car one panel at a time working slowly round the car until finished. If it's a hot or very sunny day I'll quite often do the roof first if on a morning or I'll come back to it later in the evening once it has cooled down. If it's too hot it's not impossible to do but you'll most likely find yourself rushing the job unintentionally ending up with poor results which are obviously noticeable as the roof is right in you eye line! Product wise I'm currently using Autoglim Super Resin Polish. I've used others like Maguires Gold which was really good but I do really like my Autoglim products. Hopefully that's enough to get people talking and please share your experiences and different methods as we can all learn something off each other sometimes even when you think your own way is best, (I do like to be proven wrong! :)
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As mentioned on the National Events thread by niedzial1983 I agreed that a new thread would be a good idea to compile ideas tips and tricks for getting our cars looking good for shows, events, meets or just generally because you/we care about our cars. So I've created one. Hopefully the title says it all and it has enough/the right tags to make it easily searchable. Hopefully it takes off Enjoy
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My old A4 115 (AJM Code I think!) was remapped to 150 and was way louder than yours. What I found was two very worn hydraulic lifters. One thing to look out for if you go down the route of whipping them out is to check the lining they run in, if the lining is overly worn you could be looking at a new head. I don't think it sounds like a timing issue! To be honest it doesn't sound bad at all. One other thing I remember is that you definitely get more noise once you remove the cat and egr, more noticeable with the egr removal. Hope this helps :)
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36 psi is correct if you've got a quattro. It's significantly higher on the quattro due to the increased weight of the transfer box (adds about 100-150 kg over the front axle if I remember rightly) :)
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Have you got this sorted? When this happened on my A3 I did away with the over complicated arrangement that is present. I used some good quality silicone vacuum hose and took off the white connector with small o-ring and clip. I used some aroldite and pushed the silicon hoes up about 2 inches up the feed pipe and then the other end was an extremely snug fit over the other end which no longer needed the clip. Far more secure and no chance of leaking. Obviously this wont help if it's the shaft that is leaking through the wipe motor gear box. But even then it's a cheap part about £50-60 ish. :)
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