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Hey, i recently picked up a 2008 A6 estate. The car has been running immaculately well for its age and mileage. However i have recieved the dreaded EML, the code is the P0405 code. This relates to the EGR sensor. This is causing the ECU to not know how open or closed the egr valve is and its giving me intermittent loss of power when trying to accelerate. I am getting the car remapped to bypass the EGR, this should solve the problem, but i wanted to know wether i would also need to blank it off? I have the 2.0TDI 140 Thank you.
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Hi, not sure if this has been asked and answered already. My car won’t go into 2nd gear sometimes when changing up from first. Changed gear box oil, and replaced clutch. The engine light didn’t come on when it wouldn’t go into gear up until the clutch was replaced, it now comes on when it won’t go into gear occasionally since clutch has been replaced. Any other ideas? Thanks in advance
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Hi Hope someone has some ideas and can help me with the below please? Audi A6 avant c7 v6 3L TDI I have noticed a black splatter around the coolant reservoir and top engine cover. Upon further inspection noticed a black mass of more of the same around where exhaust is coming out of the engine. It is totally solid/hard. What is that? Engine runs ok apart from very rare juddering on cold start and some coolant disappearing overtime. (Like 200mil over a month or two) No leaks of any sort noticed This black hard mass looks worrying 😞 No loss of power, no overheating, coolant reservoir nice and clean, oil cap clean, no bad smoke coming out of exhaust- none of the worrying bits if you know what I mean? Any help would be much appreciated. See pictures attached.
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Guys need your help !! Ive got a 2008 A6 2.0 tfsi s line have the dreaded oil pressure light coming on very intermittently so I have flushed engine cleaned out sump cleared the strainer/oil pickup didn't find much crap all seemed okRan car for a week or so no issues then its started again only when i slow down and let the revs fall below 1000rpm not every time but under heavy breaking quick beep flashes oil pressure warning then all is fine again can drive for hours no light unless i stop or slow down Doesn't happen on the drive when i sit and rev the car no issues at all only when the car is moving ??Ive had it to my local garage ( A friend so no charge) who couldn't find anything wrong light never came on at all on road test so he told me to take it back and maybe change the oil sensor and if it still does it he will do a pressure test Ive replaced the sensor topped up the oil still the !Removed! light flashed beep goes off when revs drop under 1000 rpm but again intermittently and again never stays on If i get the pressure checked i can't see it detecting anything because it only happens when the cars moving never when the car is stationary Car runs absolutely perfect no rattles or engine noise at all Please Please any help would be great its driving mad !!! -
I have a 2012 Audi A6/C7 3.0 V6 TFSI with adjustable air suspension which has just been a nightmare. After changing all 4 air bags and the relay, it took just a few months before it dropped again on all four corners. I just want this nightmare to end. I've decided to convert to coils and settled on the ST kit for my car. The problem is ST doesn't want to sell it to me! My local dealer said the kit is not applicable to units with adjustable dampening/level control. But thats the whole point! I just want to convert to normal springs and never have to worry again. If its just warning lights on the dash coming up after the conversion I can live with that. If theres a way to cancel those errors, I'd really appreciate the instructions. I'm really looking for is someone who has a 2012-2014 A6 or A7 (C7), S6 or Allroad with the air suspension who has converted to coils. Pls., pls. let me know: 1) If the ST coils will work out. Will they fit without issues or do I need to buy any additional parts? - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-suspensi...g/1321000b~st/ 2) If you didn't use the ST's? What coilovers did you use? 3) Are the level controls/EDC going to be an issue after the conversion? Or is it just warning lights? 4) How to cancel/code-out the lights? Praying someone will help end this nightmare. Thank you.
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Hi All I am a new member here so firstly thanks for the support. I have a 2.0 TDi Auto Quattro Black Edition (2017). I love my car and have had it for over 3 years now. A few days ago I got a flashing coil light on the dashboard during part of a half hour journey. This did not come back on since then in the 2-3 other journeys I have done. I did manage to get the fault codes which are below 2 Faults Found: 5290 - Throttle Actuator Control Circuit P2100 00 [100] - Open Circuit Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 7 Mileage: 54579 km Date: 2021.12.23 Time: 18:03:40 Engine RPM: 956.00 /min Normed load value: 20.4 % Vehicle speed: 11 km/h Coolant temperature: 89 °C Intake air temperature: 55 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.400 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Mass airflow sensor 1 bank 1 airflow: raw value: 516.6 mg/stroke Throttl.valve adapt. 1 bank 1: posit feedback - Specified value: 0.00 % Throttl.valve adapt. 1 bank 1: posit feedback - Actual value: 0.00 % Throttl.valve adapt. 1 bank 1: posit feedback - Offset closed: -0.09 % Throttle valve adapter 1 bank 1: monitoring - status-Bits 0-7: 0 Throttle valve adapter 1 bank 1: monitoring - status-Bits 0-7: 0 Throttle valve adapter 1 bank 1: monitoring - status-Bits 0-7: 9 Throttle valve adapter 1 bank 1: monitoring - status-Bits 0-7: 55 Throttl.valve adapt. 1 bank 1: posit feedback - Raw voltage: 4496.4 mV 5296 - Throttle Valve Actuator Module (J338): Motor Circuit P2102 00 [032] - Signal Low Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 54576 km Date: 2021.12.23 Time: 18:00:50 Engine RPM: 1477.50 /min Normed load value: 92.2 % Vehicle speed: 96 km/h Coolant temperature: 90 °C Intake air temperature: 87 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.420 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 39 Mass airflow sensor 1 bank 1 airflow: raw value: 731.2 mg/stroke Throttl.valve adapt. 1 bank 1: posit feedback - Specified value: 0.00 % Throttl.valve adapt. 1 bank 1: posit feedback - Actual value: 0.00 % Throttl.valve adapt. 1 bank 1: posit feedback - Offset closed: -0.09 % Throttle valve adapter 1 bank 1: monitoring - status-Bits 0-7: 0 Throttle valve adapter 1 bank 1: monitoring - status-Bits 0-7: 0 Throttle valve adapter 1 bank 1: monitoring - status-Bits 0-7: 8 Throttle valve adapter 1 bank 1: monitoring - status-Bits 0-7: 55 Throttl.valve adapt. 1 bank 1: posit feedback - Raw voltage: 4496.4 mV There was also a little smell of what I think is diesel when driving, but only on the journey after this happened. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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Hi all hope everyone keeping well! my A6 1.8 TFSI’s mpg output doesn’t seem that great compared to what I was expecting… I’m averaging around 29mpg per tank full… driving is a mix of urban local roads and short 10 mins a day on the a13. I drive the car sensibly also rarely putting the foot down other than a once in a while, just wondering if I’m being silly expecting higher MPG as per the expected guidelines (38 mpg urban and 49 mpg extra urban). Unsure how much difference it makes but I’ve only been using premium e5 petrol in the car also. any advice or comments welcomed. Thanks guys
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Hi all, I have SW: 42.2.0 and want to upgrade to 5570. I have the DVD in the boot so I assume I have MMI 2G high? Anyway I am after buying the firmware update dvd's ideally from a UK supplier and would appreciate any referals. Thanks
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Have just received our A6 Avant back from the body shop after some repairs, and have noticed that the retractable luggage cover is only sliding back about a third of the way. It moves up and down fine when the boot opens and closes, although only the first third. Is there a trick to resetting this? I called Audi and they suggested holding the boot close button for about 10 seconds to reset, which I didn't think would work as I'd just seen a video on another forum about using that to set the boot height. Any help appreciated.
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Hi there! I have a friend who has an Audi A6 C7 (2013) 3.0 V6 TDI and it has ceramic brakes. He told me that the car's previous owner was an Audi engineer in Germany and he put the ceramic brakes on it. Now, my friend possibly have a problem with the discs, because he might have micro damages on it. He wants to replace them, but the ceramic brakes cost a fortune, and way more than the whole car, so obviously he doesn't want that. The question is: is it possible to swap the complete ceramic brake system (incl. discs, pads, calipers and everything) to a conventional/normal brake system? Or is it a big job? That would be nice to hear that he can just remove the ceramic set, and 'plug-and-play' the normal ones. I guess it's not that easy. :) Thanks in advance, David
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2004 Audi A6 Allroad Quattro, 4.2l V8 Petrol, Automatic (Tiptronic), 7-Seater, Black, 330bhp 112,000 miles, MOT til 5th August 2020 £900 ono Needs work but would be worth it for someone with a workshop and the time. Still driveable, but here is a full list of the issues: Oil leak from crankshaft seal O/S/F driveshaft and rearmost arm ball joint need replacing N/S/F arm ball joint needs replacing Both rear diff/arm bushes and C-links need replacing Exhaust flexi pipe needs cutting out and replacing Front discs need replacing Airbag fault light (driver's seat wiring connection) High-level brake light LEDs need replacing Rear suspension air leak O/S headlamp frosted (but I have a replacement ready to fit, which I'll include of course)
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Hi all I have just just purchased a 2019 A6 50 tdi AWD. I cant belive the step off lag on the car, if I plant my foot to the floor from a standstill it literally takes a second before it really takes off. Is this a thing or do I need to get it back to the dealer. The stated 0-62 could never be achieved with this throttle delay. It also struggles to engage whne rolling up and away from roundabouts. I had a 335d xdrive before this and that had no turbo or throttle delay. Can somone please confirm that this is normal or not? Thanks in advance
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Hi there. We have a A6 1.9 diesel 2003. The fuel consumption went really bad and the temperature gauge stopped working. I was told that the ECU would be over fueling the engine as it will think the engine is cold. I have replaced the temperature sender and the thermostat. The fuel gauge is now working but the fuel consumption is not where it should be. Do i need to re set anything for the ECU to function properly? Any help would be great. Thanks. Ian
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Got two discs I bought a few months back for a car I no longer have. OIEO £350
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Audi A6 C6 3.0 TDI Le Man's Edition- Prospective Buyer.
Joshb58 posted a topic in Audi A6 (C6) Forum
I am currently in the market for a late Audi A6 C6 Le Edition. I have test driven a 2010 and this is my time driving a Audi ( currently driving a BMW).The car was very smooth, changed through the gears with no issues and the no noises from the suspension, as this is a big heavy car. Below is a list of things to look for and problems, I have found. Air conditioning faults Feel for water ingress in the boot (particularly behind left hand trim panel),Clonks over bumps/hard lock front ARB bushes There's a small weakness in the flap system within the inlet manifolds that will throw an engine light.Later cars ~2010 on don't suffer from this. 6 speed tiptronic box is very tough with any sort of problem rare but an oil change at 100k is often recommended as a bit of preventative maintenance. DPF 120,000 miles EGR 100-150,000 miles Inlet Manifold Swirl Flaps 100,000 miles Suspension 120,000 Cup holders dry as there is a ECU underneath Is there anything else I should look out for. -
I have a 2008 S6 Avant with parking sensors in the front and also in the rear + rear camera. Till yesterday I also had the graphic display working fine and showing when I get close to an object. All of a sudden it stopped working... The rear camera is working and the sensors do give a tone when approaching an obstacle, but I don't get anything on the display. This morning I poked around with the settings in the MMI and saw that the graphic parking was disabled. I enabled it again, but nothing... After restarting the car it was switched off, which leads me to think there might be some fault in the system somewhere. However, with everything else working fine, I don't have a clue where to start checking. Any ideas or suggestions?
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Hi People, Back with first Audi in well 20 year, but is my 4th! Happy to be in an Audi A6 Allroad BiTdi, bought used and I'm the second owner. My Audi from back in the day were a stock 100 Avant , much modified Type 85 Audi 80 sport (2.0 16v from a type 89) and a lovely Oettinger 90 quattro 2.5 Hoping to enjoy being a member here. Paul
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Howdy Audi owners 🙂 I have rather a silly question for anyone who has the knowledge, I have searched everywhere on our friend google, to no avail! Does anyone have any pictures as to where i can find the turbo on an A6 Break 2010, and for a plus, maybe some doo's and ddont's of how to remove it? The reason for this is...I have a whistling/wirling sound as I acccelerate: around 2/250 revs. As far as my resurch goes, people have sugested that I iether need a new turbo kit, or the pipes that join onto the turbo may be loose or have a slight fracture in them. I would be most greatfull for any help anyone can give me 🙂 Thank you in advance.
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Hi everyone, Recently my Dad has given me his old Audi A6 C5 which he's owned since the early 2000's. It's a FWD 1896cc diesel which has had zero mechanical issues; the only problem it's had was an electrical issue, caused from leaves building up between the windscreen and the bonnet. It's in good condition and is currently just sat collecting dust in his garage so it's got me wondering whether this could potentially be a nice little project car. I want to turn it into something a bit more exciting so I was wondering whether it would be possible to convert this into a AWD 'Quattro' with (mostly) bolt on parts or would I need to make some significant changes to the body of the car? I would imagine the chassis/frame of this car is the same as it's Quattro variants of the same year so it's just a case of fitting a drivetrain/shaft? Any insight would be really appreciated. Like I said, I'm just exploring the possibility currently. I look forward to hearing from you. Cheers, Matt
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Hi everyone, This is my first time posting a forum topic on Audi Owners Club so hopefully I get this right. Basically I have a bit of a project car idea in mind and I'm looking for some advise. My Dad has driven a Audi A6 C5 since he purchased it second hand in the early 2000's. It's a FWD 1896cc diesel which has had zero mechanical problems; the only thing he has had trouble with is the ECU which got flooded with autumn leaves a few years back. Just over a year and a half ago he decided to retire the A6 when he got himself an Audi A4 2014 reg and has given me the A6. Since then I've been wondering whether I could turn this car into something a bit more exciting so with that in mind, is it possible to convert this FWD Audi C5 into a AWD 'Quattro' with (mostly) bolt on parts? Or would the whole body of the car need to be cut up and altered to get the drivetrain/shaft in? My guess would be the chassis and frame is the same as the Quattro variants sold in 2000 but I don't know, any insight would be appreciated. If possible I plan to swap the engine with something with more power like Audi's 1.8T petrol and other upgrades for some track fun. Look forward to hearing from you in advance. Matt
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Afternoon all I have a 2014 plate A6 Estate and I would appreciate any advice you may be able to give. Last week I had it booked in for a service at a local garage on Friday. 36 hrs prior to the service the catalytic converter light came on, and so I dropped it off early with the garage and asked them to investigate the light after they'd done the service. I got a phone call from said garage, at around 1300hrs on Friday telling me that they'd done the service and that their diagnostic kit had come up with 3 separate fault codes relating to the warning light - namely a glow plug code, a Diesel Particulate Filter code and a cam shaft alignment code (the cam shaft was replaced last Autumn). The garage said that they could do no further diagnostics as their kit wasn't in depth enough, but they put me in touch with a garage with better diagnostic kit. Car has been with the second garage all morning today, and they tell me that they can't find any faults (possibly as the first garage may have deleted the fault codes). No warning lights, no fault codes, zip. Has anyone had circumstances like this before? Thanks in advance for any help you can give. LO PS - Picture of the warning lamp in question. -
got ' gearbox malfunction can continue to drive' pop up on my dash, took my car for a diagnostics at audi they couldnt find anything wrong with the car, took it to an independant diagnostics and it came up with 3 codes... sensor for transmission speed 2.... pressure regulator valve clogged/dirty.... clutch activation implausible. spoke to numerous places and they dont seem to know what the problem is. My guess is that theres something wrong on the ECU? if so can i get it repaired or will it be a new ECU? Any help at all please!
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Dear Members, I seek advice, guidance with a hope to resolve the issue I have developed with my Audi A6 2.7 Avant (S Line 2010 Special Ed). I have searched on various threads and read a lot about this; however cannot find anything similar to what I am experiencing. Basically in a nut shell... Before I start, the car has always been serviced by Audi regularly, last one was last year April 2018. I am based in South London. DPF light came on and I had been driving the car for at most 2 weeks for short trips about 20 - 25 miles a day; however not long high speeds... just didn't get the time for a long drive. Knowing that I didn't have the time to go for a long drive, I decided to get the higher revs, I shall drive in Sports Mode so this may help a little. I had been driving around during the morning and in the afternoon upon a journey suddenly together with the DPF light, the Glow Plug coil light began to flash; I had never seen this before. Not long after, as I accelerated, suddenly I felt a huge loss of power and got really worried. As I gently pressed the throttle a little, I discovered that there was a bit of power, almost 5% and barely reached speeds of 20MPH unless I built up momentum. Unfortunately due to work and life pressures, I had to drive like this for a day and then spoke to a trusted local garage and gave my car to them. They like to spend their time, investigate, look at options, cleaning the dpf, replacing it etc. However, after connecting a variety of computer systems to the car, the garage was able to determine only a bit of info. When trying to access the channels, they could not and tried other VAG systems and still could not. The conclusion is almost that even if the dpf is cleaned or replaced; if the VAG cannot get through to the correct channels and talk with each other; it is a defeated task. So, is this a software issue, hardware, is there a password, has the dpf been damaged so much so that the channels have been blown?! Do the pressure pipes need changing, does the oxygen sensor need assessing... so many questions and not even sure if they are the right questions. Some info that may help: P2463 Diesel Particulate Filter Soot Accumulation - Upper Limit Exceeded P2002 Particulate Trap Bank 1 Efficiency below threshold: Implausible Signal I think the garage may return the car as they have had it for 3 weeks and have not been able to get past this hurdle. They are honest and have tried their best; if there are any last few things you could suggest which they could try; I can ask them to. Otherwise, what would you suggest please. Your advice and guidance would be much appreciated.
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