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I got the dreaded rattle coming from the turbo. after trawling the forums I convinced myself it was the was actuator linkage. And not something more sinister.. ie something rattling in the engine. I had a rattle on deceleration <2K rpm i wasn’t in any rush to replace the turbo so bought the clip that was supposed to cure the rattle. Also I really didn’t want to remove the turbo or the exhaust pipe in order to access the area where the clip needed fitting. i squashed the clip in a vice to ensure it was a tighter fit. Then basically I attached the clip into a socket head (can’t remember the size) with a rubber band. And with a socket extension and a cheap iPhone endoscop, I was able to see and reach right up to the actuator arm linkage behind the headers and slide the clip right on. this cured the rattle but I don’t expect it to last long. Been on a couple of months now and so far so good. so just for info - this clip can be fitted without the need to remove ANYTHING EVGATSAUTO Engine Turbo Clips... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08BPGJJJM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hi, I have an audi a3 58 plate facelift. My rear right door does not open from the inside or the outside. I can hear the lock though. I need a rear door lock actuator but I need an 8-Pin one. The problem is I can't find an 8-pin one. Would a 7-Pin or 9-Pin work ?

Hi all. Just started having an issue with my drivers door not unlocking when I press the key fob. All other doors unlock without issue. I thought the actuator had given up. However when I have driven for around 20 mins and leave the car and check it again it unlocks no problem. After around 15 mins it stops working again until I do a drive of around 20 mins and then it works again without issue. Thights???

Hi everyone ^_^ I bought an Audi A4 Cab in August, and not long after I heard a grind in the steering, at very low speed but not dry steering, like parallel parking etc. I asked for it to be looked at when I had it in to get the timing belt done but they couldn't get it to make the noise, same goes for when I tried to show people the noise, but now its getting more frequent, its just like a really loud low pitched groan, it sounds like there's no hydraulic fluid but I checked this the first time it happened, it was very low but not empty, so I topped it up straight away and it hasn't gone down since, I'm thinking maybe its been low too long and some steering components have become damaged due to not having enough fluid? Has anyone else had this problem? Also, a coupe of things I've fixed this week, in case anyone comes across a similar problem: 1) On Sunday night, I opened my boot with the key boot release button, and then I couldn't close it again, it kept bouncing back open, after stripping the boot lining off I found that my boot lock actuator had seized, this connects to a metal rod which releases the boot lock mechanism, this cost me £45 for the part which I fitted last night and the problem is solved! 2) Whilst I had the boot lining off I found that all underneath it was soaking wet, including the electronics and the signal boosters for the stereo, so I took the boosters out to dry overnight and used electric cleaner on the plugs and left them to dry out. Then yesterday after fitting the new actuator I took the strip brake light out which is on the curve of the boot with it being a cab, I found the gasket around the light was split and worn, so i cleaned the light up and put the gasket back on surrounded by sealant for temporary measure, this has made it water tight so should be ok until I can get hold of a new gasket. 3) I had my can-bus system screaming that I had a rear side light out but I had changed the bulb twice and it still wouldn't come on, so on closer examination I realized the negative connection had snapped off, to avoid replacing bits of my light I just took the little bit of metal that has snapped, bent it in half and wedged it in next to the bulb so its making contact, and now the light works :D