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Hi all, bet none of you can help but here goes, I have a 2006 A4 Cabrio which has the following problems, they all happened at once so....1, the boot will only operate using the key, the switch and the fob do not work, I have checked all the wiring from boot to the comfort unit under the passenger seat and all OK, no breaks or shorts, the actuator is functioning as well as all the boot operation micro switches. Have looked inside the comfort unit but nothing obvious and circuitry checks out. 2, The roof does not operate under power, only manually, dash says not available when trying to operate by the switch, I have manually opened and shut the roof several times as some suggest as a fix to no avail. 3, The battery keeps draining. What I have noted is that the power cable to the boot actuator reads short circuit but I do not know if that is the default when not in operation, I have checked the cable run for breaks back to the comfort unit and checked continuity end to end and for shorts with the cable disconnected at each end and this proves OK. I am thinking maybe a relay has broken down the other side of the comfort unit causing the short which is draining the battery, all fuses in the main fuse box are OK. Any suggestions please..

Hello Experts, I have an Audi A6 2006 3.2 FSI Quattro, The Car recently Started showing the EPC Warning sign, whenever this happens in a few minutes the Car turns off, i had my eye on the Battery Status in MMI and whenever the EPC sign lights up my battery Starts Draining, When it reaches 0 it turns off and i have to Jump Start the car. Took it to a few mechanics to Find the issue and all they said was that it was the battery although i had my doubts, that's why i borrowed a New battery from a Friend to test it First and see. after the new Battery installation i drove it for about 2 days and got the EPC warning Again and noticed my Battery Status went from 100% to 70%. it has not turned off on me yet but i have a Feeling it will again. After the Recent EPC warning i Ran Diagnostics With VCDS and these are the Errors that it came up with. one thing to Add is that i noticed i Get the EPC Warning only When im Driving, If the Car is on park the sign Turns off. Address 61: Battery Regul. Labels: 4F0-910-181.lbl Control Module Part Number: 4F0 910 181 E HW: 4F0 915 181 A Component and/or Version: J0644 BEM H12 0590 Software Coding: Work Shop Code: WSC 02445 823 59480 Additional Info: 4F0915105C von VA0 1603160474 Additional Info: Geraet 59480 VCID: 234277A3E2C65F2660-8076 3 Faults Found: 02254 - Interface to Generator 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100100 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 88 Mileage: 251874 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2017.02.06 Time: 11:34:38 00992 - Consumption Cut-Off Active 000 - - - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 7 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 251876 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2017.02.06 Time: 11:40:22 02272 - Quiescent Current Stage 1 000 - - - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 7 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 251879 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2017.02.06 Time: 11:49:05 Address 01: Engine Labels: 06E-910-559-BKH.lbl Control Module Part Number: 4F1 910 559 E HW: 4F1 907 559 A Component and/or Version: 3.2l V6 FSI 0070 Software Coding: 01050109190F0120 Work Shop Code: WSC 02325 785 00200 VCID: 2D56919BB4029956C6-8078 3 Faults Found: 002129 - Park/Neutral Switch Input Circuit P0851 - 006 - Short to Ground - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 4 Reset counter: 39 Mileage: 251875 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2017.02.06 Time: 11:36:59 Freeze Frame: RPM: 832 /min Mass Air / Rev.: 158.1 mg/str Temperature: 76.5°C Idle Load: 26.3 % Speed: 0.0 km/h 001109 - EVAP System P0455 - 009 - Large Leak Detected Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00010100 Fault Priority: 5 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 251878 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2017.02.06 Time: 11:43:54 Freeze Frame: Lambda: -1.0 % Temperature: 31.5°C Temperature: 81.0°C Speed: 16.0 km/h Time: 563.2 s Temperature: 592.0°C 001072 - Catalyst System; Bank 2 P0430 - 006 - Efficiency Below Threshold Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00010001 Fault Priority: 5 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 251898 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2017.02.06 Time: 13:51:16 Freeze Frame: RPM: 2304 /min Mass Air / Rev.: 305.2 mg/str Temperature: 82.5°C Part Throttle Temperature: 752.0°C Speed: 113.0 km/h Readiness: 0000 0101

I have been getting a battery drain issue from an aftermarket radio, vehicle electrics companies have told me the can bus adapter with the igition off and key removed is still actively switching something on and off pulling upto 1/4 amp. I have an Audi A3 2010 with fully amped Bose sound everthing works fine accept this battery drain issue which will drain my heavy duty start/stop battery over 2-3 days. I have had the main battery wire cut and a relay switch installed connected to the blue amp on wire to the head unit after reading that similar VW cars monsoon amps have a permanent live which switches the amp on when sensing voltage from speakers, this hasn't worked. I've also bought a replacement can bus adapter, still no help. I am thinking now to isolate any non igition power going to the can bus adapter as when I detatch this I don't seem to get battery drain. Does anyone know if I was to cut the thin yellow wire leading into the can bus adapter and wire to a switched live at the fuse box would this solve the problem. This yellow wire splits from a thicker yellow wire into the head unit. I'm thinking yellow as this is usually a permanent battery live Thanks for any advice

I have been getting a battery drain issue from an aftermarket radio, vehicle electrics companies have told me the can bus adapter with the igition off and key removed is still actively switching something on and off pulling upto 1/4 amp. I have an Audi A3 2010 with fully amped Bose sound everthing works fine accept this battery drain issue which will drain my heavy duty start/stop battery over 2-3 days. I have had the main battery wire cut and a relay switch installed connected to the blue amp on wire to the head unit after reading that similar VW cars monsoon amps have a permanent live which switches the amp on when sensing voltage from speakers, this hasn't worked. I've also bought a replacement can bus adapter, still no help. I am thinking now to isolate any non igition power going to the can bus adapter as when I detatch this I don't seem to get battery drain. Does anyone know if I was to cut the thin yellow wire leading into the can bus adapter and wire to a switched live at the fuse box would this solve the problem. This yellow wire splits from a thicker yellow wire into the head unit. I'm thinking yellow as this is usually a permanent battery live Thanks for any advice