Search the Community

Hi everyone, I have a slightly irritating issue that has been ongoing for a few months now. Having driven this car for several years, normally its idle RPM is 800. However, for several months, the car is having intermittent periods of high idle at 1000 RPM and at times the idle can be slightly rough. The car has no fault codes on my Autel machine. The DPF values before and after the latest regeneration that happened this Tuesday were: Before Latest Regeneration Km Since Last Regeneration - 417.1Km Soot Mass Measured - 0.21g Soot Mass Calculated - 24.26g Oil Ash Volume - 55.3341711g Oil Ash Mass - 55.3341711g Ash Load Limit - 70g After Latest Regeneration Km Since Last Regeneration - 2.5Km Soot Mass Measured - -5.57g Soot Mass Calculated - 4.68g Oil Ash Volume - 55.3402682g Oil Ash Mass - 55.3352631g Ash Load - 70g When the car initiated this particular regeneration, a grumbling sound came from the engine bay which I had never heard before but it has not happened since. Having done some research, I am suspecting one of the following: Bad DPF differential pressure sensor/blocked DPF - unlikely as the DPF is regenerating every 415Km or so which I believe is fine Bad alternator - unlikely as there is no battery warning light and the voltage of the battery during idle is 14.5V Weak battery - again unlikely as there is no battery warning light Fuel injector issue - unlikely as there are no engine fault codes and the car is not misfiring Bad thermostat - unlikely as I fitted a new OEM thermostat from Audi in Nov 2023 Bad coolant temp. sensor - possible as it has not been changed, over the past week when motorway driving, the temp. gauge on the dash was fluctuating between 70 and 90C instead of staying at its usual 90C Also, over the past week or so, there has been an extra sound coming from the engine bay (I believe it is loudest on the offside of the car) that is louder on accelerating, not sure if this is related. This video of me testing the DPF differential pressure signal wire contains the sound of the engine on idle and while it is revving on idle (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SfIBwlzODhr4Rjy9tdwqpNCoTVE_anyY/view?usp=drive_link). What are your thoughts as to what could be causing these issues? Any help would be much appreciated!

So, the coolant appears to stay warmer for much longer than normal and also seems to heat to operating temperature much quicker. Should I be concerned ? The car isn't overheating and drives normally. I've checked thoroughly for coolant leaks and found none. It is also not losing coolant. I suspect the cooling fan relay may be broken or perhaps the coolant needs to be flushed. Can anyone shed some light on this ? Thanks. Ps. There are no warning lights and it warms to operating temperature in about 6km of easy driving. This would normally be closer to 9 or 10km.

I own a 2015 Q3 with c.40k miles on it. Purchased a year ago from Audi. The car recently overheated. Upon inspection, I found two small canisters IN the coolant tank with small granules in the canisters. One of the canisters had broken open so I assumed that the granules were now in my coolant system. The mechanic had to replace the water pump and thermostat due to both a leak and clogging by the granules. Our assumption was that the canisters/granules were a cheap fix for an existing leak, prior to my purchase. I spoke to my Audi dealership and they told me that the canisters are normal and that Audi put them in ALL their coolant tanks! No one I have spoken to and none of my research has found anything about these canisters. Does anyone here know anything about these mysterious canisters that I found in my coolant tank and if Audi do actually put them in, and why?!

Hi, I have an Audi A3 2.0 TDI 2009 reg. About 6 months ago the car started leaking coolant - I was noticing a smell of coolant around the engine on the drivers side. The leak was confirmed by the car running out of coolant a couple of times and I had to top it up. The car never overheated during this time, I just got a warning on the dashboard and topped it up when this happened. I took it to the garage and they tested the coolant (some kind of pH test?) to see if exhaust fumes were getting into the coolant. It was decided that the headgasket had gone. The head taken off, pressure tested for leaks, a new gasket put on and when I got the car back, almost immediately I realised it was still leaking coolant - it absolutely stunk of it. And the engine light was coming on for a few days at a time and going off (the error code referred to a coolant valve being jummed open or something). The garage couldn't find a leak initially, but the car started juddering in 5 and 6th gear, running out of coolant more regularly and when I took it back they tested the coolant again and decided the gasket hadn't been fitted properly. They also replaced a part for re-circulating the exhaust fumes which apparently had got clogged up with oil and rubbish from the head going. The car went back to the garage, head the head gasket re-fitted, re-checked and I got it back. 3 days later I'm noticing a smell of coolant again, and the engine warning light has come on. Has anyone had a similar problem/any ideas what to do?

What type of each of the fluids should I buy for my car?