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Hi, apologies for the length but want to be detailed. I have a 2014 2.0tdi at 94k and am experiencing white smoke from the exhaust when the car is up to temp (after approx 5 mins of driving) I’m loosing coolant, topping up prob every 7-10 days) No hesitation starting, no distinct loss of power, no engine mgt lights on. No mayo in the oil filler cap and no visible leaks that I can see anyway. I booked it in with my mechanic and he stated there was nothing that points to a head gasket issue and had a chat with a vag friend who said it could be an issue with the inlet manifold, egr and or egr cooler but that would be a process of elimination after the car is dismantled kind of thing. any clues yet?? I went online (like you do) and someone mentioned to check a fuse in the battery fuse compartment. Couldn’t see anything blown on the small removable fuses. On my way back in after a short drive my fan kicked in (this used to happen all the time and after-run but haven’t heard this for some time coming to think of it) anyway, shortly after my particulate filter light appeared. Normally I’d just take it out on the motorway to clear this but feel less inclined to do so while the car is poorly) No lights on the dash before the dpf light, no limp mode, no hesitation on startup or acceleration, no smoke on startup, no mayo in oil cap at a bit of a loss. Really really hoping someone very clever recognises the above and says ‘I know exactly what this’ and hope that’s not just wishful thinking. over to you guys….my 160k miles 8P seemed like a tank compared this 8V Thank you so much for reading this far and racking your brains over this, eternally grateful 🙏

I have an Audi A6 S-line 2.0TDI 177 2013 (c7) - Multitronic Gearbox For the past year or so you can see smoke bellowing out from under the bonnet from the engine bay and you get this awful smell in the cabin (exhaust fumes, burning oil smell). The smoke is coming from the back of the engine to the left (as you are looking at it). The engine bay on this side is covered in black soot This only happens when the DPF starts to regen in traffic or after doing a couple of short journeys. I have replaced part no 03L131521 JV200 (EGR Connection Pipe) as I thought it was this but the smoke keeps on coming. Coolant and Oil levels remain the same. I don’t have any lights on my dashboard either. I can tell the car is doing the DPF regen when I get the smell and see the smoke and the car starts to use a bit more fuel. The car runs fine, isnt down on power etc etc. Exhaust flow is OK. No visible oil leaks either. Has anyone had anything similar?

Hi guys, First time posting to this forum so would appreciate any help or advice I can get. I have the P2002 DPF code and an engine warning light, looking to replace the sensor first before anything else as I understand repairs can be costly so want to rule out the sensor before getting the EGR or DPF changed. I have the code for the sensor which is 03L906051B however I can only find 03L906051D online, I read somewhere that this is the newer version of the part but wanted to make sure this would work on my car before I purchase the part. The other codes seem to be slightly different on the sensors too, would this matter? My car is a 65 plate so I have the newer shape and design compared the 2015 A4. I have attached some pictures too. Many thanks in advance

Hi everyone, I have a slightly irritating issue that has been ongoing for a few months now. Having driven this car for several years, normally its idle RPM is 800. However, for several months, the car is having intermittent periods of high idle at 1000 RPM and at times the idle can be slightly rough. The car has no fault codes on my Autel machine. The DPF values before and after the latest regeneration that happened this Tuesday were: Before Latest Regeneration Km Since Last Regeneration - 417.1Km Soot Mass Measured - 0.21g Soot Mass Calculated - 24.26g Oil Ash Volume - 55.3341711g Oil Ash Mass - 55.3341711g Ash Load Limit - 70g After Latest Regeneration Km Since Last Regeneration - 2.5Km Soot Mass Measured - -5.57g Soot Mass Calculated - 4.68g Oil Ash Volume - 55.3402682g Oil Ash Mass - 55.3352631g Ash Load - 70g When the car initiated this particular regeneration, a grumbling sound came from the engine bay which I had never heard before but it has not happened since. Having done some research, I am suspecting one of the following: Bad DPF differential pressure sensor/blocked DPF - unlikely as the DPF is regenerating every 415Km or so which I believe is fine Bad alternator - unlikely as there is no battery warning light and the voltage of the battery during idle is 14.5V Weak battery - again unlikely as there is no battery warning light Fuel injector issue - unlikely as there are no engine fault codes and the car is not misfiring Bad thermostat - unlikely as I fitted a new OEM thermostat from Audi in Nov 2023 Bad coolant temp. sensor - possible as it has not been changed, over the past week when motorway driving, the temp. gauge on the dash was fluctuating between 70 and 90C instead of staying at its usual 90C Also, over the past week or so, there has been an extra sound coming from the engine bay (I believe it is loudest on the offside of the car) that is louder on accelerating, not sure if this is related. This video of me testing the DPF differential pressure signal wire contains the sound of the engine on idle and while it is revving on idle (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SfIBwlzODhr4Rjy9tdwqpNCoTVE_anyY/view?usp=drive_link). What are your thoughts as to what could be causing these issues? Any help would be much appreciated!

Hi people. 2011 1.6 TDI A3 8P **I had a stage 1 remap and EGR delete done in 2020** Been having no end of problems with my DPF over the last month or so. It started about a couple months when my car went into limp mode after the DPF light had been on for a couple days - I got a technician to come out and force regen it to which the light disappeared and all was well until the light came back on a week later (with no fault code showing when scanned - odd). After driving round at high RPM it still wasn't budging, took it to the garage (went into limp mode on the way there) had the DPF chemically cleaned, engine temp sensor and DPF pressure sensor replaced to no avail as the light still shows and doesn't regenerate. It isn't blocked (yet) and all the parameters for regeneration are being reached but it just isn't doing so. Rang the place I had my remap done to see if it could be anything to do with the ECU but they said that won't be the case. I've booked in to have my ECU reverted back to factory settings to see if that will do anything but that won't be for another couple months so I'm trying not to drive it incase it goes into limp mode and causes more damage before then. I've been advised to have the DPF removed and remapped but I'd rather not unless it's the only option left, could anyone advise any other things I could try before doing this? Need to sort this out ASAP ideally as I have read continuous blockage/limp mode can damage the car even further. Any help would be majorly appreciated! Thanks in advance

Has anyone replaced a turbo on a 2.0 8v a3? I’ve heard stories about the subframe having to be dropped to get the dpf and turbo out but was wondering if there is any other possible way as it’s becoming a struggle having it on the driveway doing it. Thanks for any help

Hi all, hope that everyone is ok and keeping well. Just a query regarding the dreaded DPF. I have noticed that my vehicle (2016 A6 2.0 TDI Ultra 190PS) seems to be carrying out the automatic regeneration a lot lately. I had previous, a 2014 A4 2.0 TDI and I do not remember that being as bad with the regeneration cycle, or maybe I am more cautious and notice the tell-tale signs of late. My driving style has never changed and I drive the A6 the same as I ever did on the A4 but seems that every other journey, my REVS sit at 1000RPM's, vibrations felt through the car, Radiator Cooling fans on and the horrid burning smell (like overheated brakes). Not once has any DPF warning light illuminated, in either car but this A6 seems to do this every other day. I do drive to work which is 6-miles and in this cold weather lately, the car Temperature sits at normal just as I park-up so I cannot drive at the 2000RPM's for 20-minutes as per most websites and the handbook. Even when I came off the motorway a few weeks ago, driving for 2-hours and the regeneration cycle started as the REVs sat on 1000RPM's plus but surely I had burnt off the particles during the motorway driving? I know after so many failed attempts, the DPF light will possibly come on, but when the car is doing the regeneration, Ive let my car idle for almost 20-minutes (twice in total) and the REVs did not drop below 1000RPM's but I had to turn the car off as I had things to do. Am I doing anything wrong or should I just take a step back at tad.

Help needed from a new member,does anybody know if the turbo off an 07 2L tdi 140bhp with dpf, will be a straight swap for the turbo on an 05 2L tdi 140bhp without a dpf on….. thanks in advance.

Hi all I currently have a 2011 1.6 tdi A3 and I'm having problems. It cut out on me the other day, since then I have had to take a sensor off just to start it otherwise it just cuts out. I put it on diagnostics and it told me it was the DPF so tryed to clean that with spray but still the same. Any advice would be much appreciated Cheers

Hello, I have 2.0 TDI audi c7. I have engine management light on. When i scan for error codes i get dpf bank 1 above threshold. Recently, i got my dpf cleaned, i was told by mechanic that it wasn't bad but still he carried out forced regen and everything. -no limp mode -regenerates every 200-250 miles -soot mass calculated/measurd below 25g. -45mpg combined mileage (not bad) But i have noticed that sometimes soot mass measured goes in negative value. And at idle my dpf sensor voltage is above 1V. I dnt understand why my engine management light is on because of dpf although my car is not in limp mode i have done about 1000+ miles with warning light on. Could someone plz help me to get rid of engine management light? Thanks.

I have a Audi A4 2007 B7 170. I have had the car mapped to 220 increasing it by 50 Bhp but time has now come where im due a cluth and fly wheel but want a upgrade. Does anybody have any recommendations on what i should get? Been told dark side developments are good? Plus i got a consistent dpf problem flashes up with the glow plug light with the dpf light and sometimes the engine management light the car goes in limp mode here and there then goes back to normal but throws out black smoke which is a bit odd. Been told i need a new turbo which i doubt. Any help and advice will be very much appreciated. Thank you

Dear Members, I seek advice, guidance with a hope to resolve the issue I have developed with my Audi A6 2.7 Avant (S Line 2010 Special Ed). I have searched on various threads and read a lot about this; however cannot find anything similar to what I am experiencing. Basically in a nut shell... Before I start, the car has always been serviced by Audi regularly, last one was last year April 2018. I am based in South London. DPF light came on and I had been driving the car for at most 2 weeks for short trips about 20 - 25 miles a day; however not long high speeds... just didn't get the time for a long drive. Knowing that I didn't have the time to go for a long drive, I decided to get the higher revs, I shall drive in Sports Mode so this may help a little. I had been driving around during the morning and in the afternoon upon a journey suddenly together with the DPF light, the Glow Plug coil light began to flash; I had never seen this before. Not long after, as I accelerated, suddenly I felt a huge loss of power and got really worried. As I gently pressed the throttle a little, I discovered that there was a bit of power, almost 5% and barely reached speeds of 20MPH unless I built up momentum. Unfortunately due to work and life pressures, I had to drive like this for a day and then spoke to a trusted local garage and gave my car to them. They like to spend their time, investigate, look at options, cleaning the dpf, replacing it etc. However, after connecting a variety of computer systems to the car, the garage was able to determine only a bit of info. When trying to access the channels, they could not and tried other VAG systems and still could not. The conclusion is almost that even if the dpf is cleaned or replaced; if the VAG cannot get through to the correct channels and talk with each other; it is a defeated task. So, is this a software issue, hardware, is there a password, has the dpf been damaged so much so that the channels have been blown?! Do the pressure pipes need changing, does the oxygen sensor need assessing... so many questions and not even sure if they are the right questions. Some info that may help: P2463 Diesel Particulate Filter Soot Accumulation - Upper Limit Exceeded P2002 Particulate Trap Bank 1 Efficiency below threshold: Implausible Signal I think the garage may return the car as they have had it for 3 weeks and have not been able to get past this hurdle. They are honest and have tried their best; if there are any last few things you could suggest which they could try; I can ask them to. Otherwise, what would you suggest please. Your advice and guidance would be much appreciated.

Hi. I have recently purchased an A3 2.0tdi and am having juddering when accelerating but only in the top 3 gears and about 2k rpm. It only judders til I get to about 2200 rpm and then is fine til the next gear!? As I get a bit of white smoke on start up I am leaning towards the dpf, does it have one first and foremost? Any fingers pointing in the right direction will be appreciated! Also a note worth mentioning, it does have a stainless system with decat. Thanks.

Hello. Im really struggling with a dpf fault code. Im getting the p2002 ( efficiency below threshold) code. I think the dpf has been removed by a previous owner as there is a non factory looking weld running around the dpf casing and she does smoke a little under acceleration. I have replaced the exhaust pressure sensor and i know the pipes are not blocked. It was running fine until i thought id get the turbo hot on a bypass to clean it. I have tryed resetting the values but cant seem to access coding through vcds. The car has gone into limp mode. Any help would be much appreciated as im at a loss and am considering selling the car as is.

Good day all. I currently drive an A6 2003 1.9 tdi, a ltd edition run out model, bought it at 97k and now has 227k and shows no sign of giving up, but still having original clutch,turbo,exhaust,dpf,egr and due a belt change at 240k , plus an urge for something nicer , its time to go. Would ideally like an A7, its a vehicle i’d intend keeping long term , currently I do 15-20k a year. Split 70/30 in favour of long runs . I’ve driven a few and for my needs the 204ps stronic seems ideal, though certainly not adverse to a bit more power. seems to be plenty of choice out there, I don’t need a pristine example ( the car is to be used not pampered, but that does not mean abused) plenty of opinions on gearboxes , egr, dpf on line. Seen a few 2012-2014 examples i like. Which vary from 15k private to 25k main dealer. Given you can check mot history for mileage am i better off going for a vehicle that has covered 15k a year over one that has done 5k in its mot history? This in respect to dpf,egr. On the stronic it seems the gearbox services are pretty crucial, yet most cars out of main dealer network have missed them and even some main dealer cars have not had them , though when queried each dealer has said they’ll do it before collection and give written assurance it won’t affect their or additional warranty (should i choose to purchase an extension) Effectively I’m looking at 26k ish from a dealer with 3 year warranty for a 2014 or around 15k for a private deal on a 2012. Which leaves a big chunk (and no need for finance) to deal with a few issues. Which way would you go with real world experience and am i expecting too much for the car to go on to around 200k?

Hi, I have had issues with my DPF clogging up (I do a lot of short trips) and I was wanting to purchase a diagnostic tool so that I can easily check the soot levels and potentially force a regen (this is not essential). Can anyone give me any advice on which computer I can purchase that would give me the required functionality? The cheaper the better, as long as it allows me to check the soot levels. I have had a look on ebay and there seems to be many models to choose from, so some advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Mark

Hi, just wondering if anyone who has a DPF on the Audi 2009 model, 103bhp? and if so iv looked in the handbook but cannot see anything about the expiry of the DPF's, i know they usually can go over 100,000 but wondered if at 100,000 it would need replacing or just regenerated? I know they are quite costly, and wondered if anyone else has had issues or just interested on experience on them. Thanks in advance

Hello everyone. I am new to this forum and i hope i can share some valuable information and prevent a fellow Audi owner from spending a fortune for no reason. I have a 2008 Audi A5 3.0 TDI Quattro. Recently my DPF warning light began to come on and it only got more and more regular and i found that i had to take it for a blip down the motorway every other day. As you can imagine, eventually the dreaded glow plug warning light started to flash and it put itself in limp mode... I knew that now my dpf filter was so clogged up that it was surely a replacement job which i have been made aware can cost over £1,000 in bills. However, following some research i found a DPF cleaning specialist who use the very popular Terraclean equipment and were mobile. He ran some diagnostics and found my DPF had nearly 60g of soot and the pressure was between 10 and 13psi! =O. For those of you who do not know, the dpf pressure should not be more than around 3psi upon hard acceleration. The specialists words were "yep, it is f****d". He was not phased and got to work immediately. He connected his machine and all the pipes, set up the chemical they use and began blasting it through the dpf system. After 30 minutes a ghastly cloud of smoke and some grimy bubbles came out of the exhaust and the process had finished. At the end he reconnected his diagnostic equipment and the dpf was now reading 15g of soot and between 1 and 2.5psi upon acceleration, pretty much good as new. This entire process including him coming to my home cost only £250 and my Audi has never ran so beautifully! My word of wisdom here would be; do not run straight to the main dealer for DPF issues as they will simply charge you £1,500 to replace it just for the same issue to occur in another 30,000 miles. Find your local dpf cleaning specialist and have them clean it for you. It takes maximum 1 hour and will save you a fortune. Hope this is of some use to people =].

Having issues with my Audi A3 170 BHP 2008 DPF. The DPF light came on a couple of times over the last few months, each time I took it for a blast on the motorway high revs etc and it went off, However over the weekend it has come back on along with the glowplug & engine management light. The car has also gone into limp mode. Reading up on the forums i understand it now needs a forced regen by hooking the car up to VCDS. Is this correct? Does anyone know any place in the Birmingham/ WestMidlands i can do this without having to fork out silly money? Cheers,