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I have an Audi A3 TFSI 2.0 cabriolet, last week the central locking and car door lock both stopped working at the same time. The door lock just spins around. Anyone know why this would be? I've replaced the key battery and have attempted to reprogram the key but nothing has resolved it. Would it be an easy job to just replace the key barrel? Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Hi, I have an audi a3 58 plate facelift. My rear right door does not open from the inside or the outside. I can hear the lock though. I need a rear door lock actuator but I need an 8-Pin one. The problem is I can't find an 8-pin one. Would a 7-Pin or 9-Pin work ?

Dear Audi Forum Members; Thank you for reading my post. I am a complete beginner, I barely know the layman version of what I need to buy and take to the garage to fix. Please be kind to my description of the symptoms of my vehicle. I have an Audi A3, 2005/2006 Model. Initially, when I use the key fob to unlock the vehicle, my right passenger side door did not open. For some reason, I would use the key fob a number of times and it was jammed. Then after a few weeks, when I use the fob, the same door won't lock. I can hear a whirring noise but every door beside this one would lock. I have to press the button a good 10x and hope it made a sudden locking noise and then I would check if it had locked. If this fails, then I would have to wait in the car, turn the car on, wait 5 minutes and rinse and repeat for the door to lock. A new symptom is when I am in the vehicle, and I press the fob to lock when I am inside, pressing it a number of times, turns the light off and also the actual switch for locking all the doors on my driver's side of the door. Hoping someone could advise, what it could be. I have already called an electrician, and they said its £50 just to look at the car without even diagnosing the problem. Please Help. Thank you Bengalisama

Hi all. Just started having an issue with my drivers door not unlocking when I press the key fob. All other doors unlock without issue. I thought the actuator had given up. However when I have driven for around 20 mins and leave the car and check it again it unlocks no problem. After around 15 mins it stops working again until I do a drive of around 20 mins and then it works again without issue. Thights???

Hi everyone ^_^ I bought an Audi A4 Cab in August, and not long after I heard a grind in the steering, at very low speed but not dry steering, like parallel parking etc. I asked for it to be looked at when I had it in to get the timing belt done but they couldn't get it to make the noise, same goes for when I tried to show people the noise, but now its getting more frequent, its just like a really loud low pitched groan, it sounds like there's no hydraulic fluid but I checked this the first time it happened, it was very low but not empty, so I topped it up straight away and it hasn't gone down since, I'm thinking maybe its been low too long and some steering components have become damaged due to not having enough fluid? Has anyone else had this problem? Also, a coupe of things I've fixed this week, in case anyone comes across a similar problem: 1) On Sunday night, I opened my boot with the key boot release button, and then I couldn't close it again, it kept bouncing back open, after stripping the boot lining off I found that my boot lock actuator had seized, this connects to a metal rod which releases the boot lock mechanism, this cost me £45 for the part which I fitted last night and the problem is solved! 2) Whilst I had the boot lining off I found that all underneath it was soaking wet, including the electronics and the signal boosters for the stereo, so I took the boosters out to dry overnight and used electric cleaner on the plugs and left them to dry out. Then yesterday after fitting the new actuator I took the strip brake light out which is on the curve of the boot with it being a cab, I found the gasket around the light was split and worn, so i cleaned the light up and put the gasket back on surrounded by sealant for temporary measure, this has made it water tight so should be ok until I can get hold of a new gasket. 3) I had my can-bus system screaming that I had a rear side light out but I had changed the bulb twice and it still wouldn't come on, so on closer examination I realized the negative connection had snapped off, to avoid replacing bits of my light I just took the little bit of metal that has snapped, bent it in half and wedged it in next to the bulb so its making contact, and now the light works :D