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So let me start this thread with the issue at hand I have a 2015 Audi a3 2.0t my heat stopped working (fan blows great) so I flushed the heater core and pulled the dash (to replace a motor for the hvac flaps) then I found out the bag of silica beads had busted and thus clogged my system so after flushing the system multiple ways and multiple times the heat started to work great but only if you revved the car in the slightest bit if it just stays idling the car will get to operating temp but no heat and both hoses going to the heater core are cold so would it be the heater control valve? Or would it just not work at all if that was it it’s cost me a lot of money and time and can’t seem to find any answers

I had my oil pressure light on and my.mechanic without checking oil pressure said it was a broken switch and fixed it. My turbo began to make a noise. Mechanic wasn't well so I went to another who said turbo had gone. But after keeping it for two days was too busy to fix it. He said since I'd only had turbo less than 2 years there was underlying fault. He told me it was OK to drive. I drove home 6 miles and stalled then it would not start. AA guy couldn't even jump lead start it. It was totally unresponsive. Have I totalled the engine? I'm not working single mum and my son needs driven around. I'm stuffed without it so am terrified it's useless now. I bought it with money my.mum left me for 11k back in 2016. She left us 20k each so I very not even any money to fix it. I've done a go fund me. Can anyone advise how much I'll need. Thankyou very much.

Hi, after nursing my trusty old 1991 deisel cavvy through mot's with a welder for the last fourteen years i decided i deserved something better quality for my autumn years so I've just bought my first Audi, a 2004 A3 2.0 TDI i really like the car despite it having a few electrical faults which i'm hoping are common faults that some one here may have an answer to . The battery goes flat if the car is not driven every day and the hazard switch is illuminated nearly all the time, the drivers window always goes down to the bottom before it will go up when i send it up with the switch and the drivers door does not register on the dash when its open, i have plastic welded the actuator for the glove box slow release back together and cured the glove box light from staying on constantly and repaired two signal wires that had lost insulation and could have been shorting out that go through the drivers door frame to the door, i have since then (with the use of a starter pack connected to the negative lead earth point) put a multi meter in between the positive starter pack lead and positive battery terminal before disconnecting the negative car lead from the battery so as not to trigger the alarm and fry my meter while i read the amps drawn, with both doors open and latches in the closed position i then lock the car with the fob and it momentarily draws 3.5 amps while the hazard lights flash as the alarm arms then quickly settles to 1.5 amps, after about a minute it settles down to about 450 ma and there it stays regardless of which fuse is pulled, it has on a couple of occasions dropped to 250ma of its own accord and entered "sleep" mode even dropping to 150ma while asleep but i'm mystified as to why, i've checked the bootlight goes out when the boot is shut by leaving the back seats folded down and its not that. electrical problems have never been my strong point but this is the first time they've defeated me, has any body got any idea's?. thanks in advance